My belt has a slight slip when shifting at high RPM's, Is there a way to make it stop?? I assume it due the rapid lose of RPM's on the crank pully. it's starting to get annoying.
Well, the obvious thing would be to adjust the tension on the idler pulley. If it just started to happen, it could signal time for a new belt. It may be starting to stretch.
Dave M
Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!
Mine was slipping whenever I turned the A/C on and/or when I started it up. The tensioner was all the way up, tight. So I simply threw a new belt on, and the problem was gone. The old belt stretched about 1-3"!!!! (still don't know how that's possible). So your best bet is to try a new belt and see. Good luck.
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
First, try removing the belt and cleaning the crank pulley surface. Use a wire brush to roughen the surfaces just a little to increase the grip. Dirt, rust, etc. can build up and cause this. If this doesn't work (and it didn't in my case), there are a few different belt designs. The goodyear belt has a little better grip, but that isn't what solved my problem....... It took a set of underdrive pulleys. I discovered the crank pulley was having a hard time slowing down the accessories during a WOT gear shift. Each time the motor would change gears, the belt would slip as the crank slowed. Since it didn't do this at a few hundred RPMs less, I deduced a underdrive pulley conbined with an overdrive alternator would solve the problem. It did. Everyone that I've recommended this to was happy with the result. Some poeple are quick to say underdrive pulleys aren't worth the effort or expense. I can testify that I still have all the stock accessories with 133K miles, it did give the motor a little better response, but most of all no squeeking belt on a gearshift.
There are some small marks and a pointer on the tensioner pulley assembly that will tell you if the tensioner is in the correct position. If it is outside the marks, you need a new belt. Goodyear makes a belt called the "Gatorback" that actually has a tread pattern on the back of the belt to increase traction on the smooth pulleys that run on the back of the belt.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
Basically, your best bet man is to replace the belt. when you do take it off, bend it the opposite way it normally bends and see if the ribs are cracked. If they are the thats a sure sign that u need a new belt. Hope the new belt fixes the problem.
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