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  • confused as heck

    ive seen a few friends removing thier mass air meter, and im looking at alot of supercharging systems and of them have them, why not? do i need it? what is the deal? if i do a blower it wont be for a long time, should i upgrade mine? help fellas, thanks~gunter


    1996 Trans Am WS6 #34
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/gunter96ws6

  • #2
    answer, i think

    last check, i do believe it tells the computer how to adjust the fuel/air ratio. they remove it cause its probably easier than altering the computer.
    http://www.sounddomain.com/id/magnetheadz28

    Kenwood Krc-335(soon to be HU)]
    Kenwood Kdc-c669 (soon to be cd changer)
    Lanzar Vibe 418 (subwoofer amp)
    Lanzar Vibe 218 (6x9 amp)
    Subwoofers: bazooka EL1204

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    • #3
      well im funny about that ses light, if its on i feel like my car is $h!t. i hate when that thing is on, whats my best bet?


      1996 Trans Am WS6 #34
      http://www.cardomain.com/id/gunter96ws6

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      • #4
        If you SES light is on, there is a problem with
        any of over 100 things.

        YOu need to have it scanned.

        Somethings can cause your car to run like
        crap, and somethings won't.

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        • #5
          Some places will do it for free. Autozone here will do and it only takes about 2 minutes. Call around.

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          • #6
            Wrong, Wrong, Wrong, and Wrong.

            You NEED the MAF on a 96. Your car might run in Speed Density (backup) mode if the MAF is disfunctional or missing, but it is a vital part of your car's metering system and tells the PCM how much air the engine is using.

            Anyway, many of the blower kits relocate the MAF on the intake side of the blower and it winds up way down inside the driver's side front fender where the K&N air filter goes. Some blower car owners have later relocated the MAF back up in it's original position where it meters more properly, but not as many have done this - it's something I'm considering, but haven't done yet.

            Only exceptions are high HP cars that use aftermarket PCM's might ditch the MAF since they are designed to run off speed density as are some earlier F-Body cars.

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            • #7
              Everything above is valid....... if there is a check engine light, have autozone scan it and post the codes here. Fix the problem, don't just start changing things around hoping to fix the symptom.

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              • #8
                no no no

                my ses light is not on, but i know it would turn on if i disconnect the maf. a few of my friends did it and i was wondering what the best thing for me is?
                what kind do you have Kevin - Blown 95 TA?~gunter


                1996 Trans Am WS6 #34
                http://www.cardomain.com/id/gunter96ws6

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                • #9
                  Hi Gunter. My best advice is stay with the stock unmolested MAF. I have a Granatelli which I bought back before I heard a lot of negative things about them - Mine seems fine, but aparrently some of them are no good. I still have my stock MAF (with screen) which I may put back in someday. Also your car has to make a LOT of power before the stock MAF is holding her back, so you should spend money in other areas to get performance. If you do anything to the stock MAF to make it flow more air, you're likely to throw off the calibration, so really my best advice is to use the stock MAF "as is".

                  By the way, I used to work for Andy Granatelli dyno-tuning cars, and although I had respect for him as a tuner, racer and innovator (he had the first turbine Indy car) he was a fat pig and only paid me $3.10/hr straight time for 60 hrs a week. Seems funny now...

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                  • #10
                    well next im getting my hooker long tubes and dumping the cats(take atvantage of sc no emitions)to go with my hooker cat back. then gears and a programmer. what next? im thinking rocker arms and a cam-does that soud good you guys, you tell me. thanks~gunter


                    1996 Trans Am WS6 #34
                    http://www.cardomain.com/id/gunter96ws6

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                    • #11
                      hell ya, rockers, cam, maybe titanium springs, and some new pushrods. You should be pushing about 40 more horse to the ground maybe more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by GONEN60
                        ....maybe titanium springs, ......
                        "Titanium" springs? I don't think so.... maybe titanium retainers (overkill for the kind of cam you'd put on a stock head motor).... but not springs.
                        Fred

                        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                        • #13
                          sounds like you know a little about the topic injuneer, for the mods (check sig and add longtubes, no cats, 4.10 and programmer) i have, what should (cam applications, rocker, pushrods, springs) i get? thanks~gunter


                          1996 Trans Am WS6 #34
                          http://www.cardomain.com/id/gunter96ws6

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                          • #14
                            so you don't need titanium springs. What about a cc305 cam, Fred? I think that's what I may go with whenever I get enough money.

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                            • #15
                              im thinkin the same, what about the cc306? i heard its not streetable, is it or what? thanks~gunter


                              1996 Trans Am WS6 #34
                              http://www.cardomain.com/id/gunter96ws6

                              Comment

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