Rear Caliper: Replace, or Rebuild???
Well, it seems like the right rear caliper decided to go out on me. After having replaced the brakes twice due to pre-mature wear on the right rear, I have come to the conclusion that the caliper is shot. Do you guys know if rebuild kits are available for these calipers? A new one will run me about $150 from the dealer. Id like to take care of both of em at the same time just to be on the safe side, but thats a little too much if I buy them new. Are these calipers re-buildable?
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1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!
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Rebuild or replace is up to you. But whatever you decide, do NOT buy the parts from your local dealer. There are at least two online sources of genuine GM parts for 50-60% of dealer list:
Dal Slabaugh at Van DeVere Olds
lockitup@bright.net
800-362-9494
Jason Cromer at Sam Taylor Buick/Cadillac
staylorservice@cybertron.com
877-726-8295
You could also try an auto parts store.... the rear calipers are not unique to the F-Body, so they might carry reasonable priced "rebuilts".Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor -
Just a thought...... When I picked up my Z, the right rear caliper was shot. The previous owner had lost a pad and the caliper was metal to metal against the rotor. I picked up a used one from the local recycler (bone yard, but better) for $20. It has worked perfectly. The difference with a recycler is that they pull and inspect the parts, catalog them and put them on the shelf. They carry a warranty too.
Not just your local U-pull-it yard. The rear calipers are for LT1 F-body and LT1 Corvette, known as PBRs. Keep in mind that you will run through the rear brakes faster than the front. The pads are a little undersized. The other thing that may contribute is that so many times people simply swap pads and that's it. One should always disassemble the caliper's moving parts, thoroughly clean and lubricate them before reinstalling with fresh pads. The binding that can result from lack of cleanliness and lubrication will cause the pad not completly disengage from the rotor and wear it out fast. When this happens you usually will notice either the inboard or the outboard pad considerably thinner than the other.
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Fred, that price quote that I posted is already after a 40% discount from list as a Chevy dealer employee. I know it isnt as good as the prices that Dal or Jason give, but I figure after shipping and handling, it comes out almost the same. Thank you for the heads up though Fred, and thanks for the replies guys! Im gonna check my local auto parts store for the caliper later on today. Im probably gonna go the rebuilt route for now, and see how it goes. I just wasnt sure if it was worth the shot or not. Thanks again.....!1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!
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I picked up a right rear caliper from Autozone for about 70 bucks with the trade of my old one!
'95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.
13.685@102.11
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