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  • alrite so im still not happy

    my car in the 1/4 is still running low 14's, but in a race when we are already moving ive never lost, mostlty cuz i raced close to stock GT's and stuff on the track,so i no i have a traction problem, and also my speedo is off 20 mph sop my car is shifting weird.

    i dont plan on keeping the car much more than a year or 2

    here is wut i plan to do now, get lca relocation brackets,a set of nittos, and custom tune from ed wright my question is, will this get my et's down? my reaction times are mostly .666's, besides that any other wayh for cheap, free traction?

    and if my trans decides to go im goign to get it rebuilt, and i was told that i can get it done so it is stronger with better bands and parts, and i am going to get a custom stall for my application, a trangso shift kit, and a b & m transcoolder
    1994 firebird formula

    no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

  • #2
    That is your best bet. Go with the nitto's, but remember with those tires, they get the best grip when they are boiling. So heat them up. The relocation brackets will help you. Especially if you lowered your car. I have a question for you. What are you getting in the 60 foot. Your reaction time has nothing to do with your ET so if your running for a good Et, I suggest to sit there at the line and take your time, and dont rush it, then slam on it. Dont go for a good reaction. Most people are so worried with beating the guy/girl next to them that they dont realize that they are not pressing the gas all the way down, or something like that. So take your time.
    Eddie
    2000 M6 Trans Am
    Tune+exhaust=344WHP

    Comment


    • #3
      What kind of MPH are you running? That will indicate whether you are making the power or not. ET is a measure of how well you put the power to the ground, and as noted above, reaction time is not part of the equation. MPH in the 1/4 will tell you your power output.... 60-ft time will tell you how much you can improve your ET with sticky tires and a good launch.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4
        My recent MPH was 103.4 in the quarter mile, but the ET was 14.2. Any idea of how much power that is, from a stock M6 LT1?

        Comment


        • #5
          From your mph, you should be running easy 13 passes. You're definately having traction issues... what was your 60' time? A set of sticky tires and the standard suspension mods (LCAs, relocation brackets, torque arm, subframe connectors, etc...) may help. What rpm are you launching at? Do you lower the tire pressure in your rear tires? Lower the rpm you're launching at and lower your tire pressure may help take a few tenths off your 60' time.
          Dave M
          Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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          • #6
            i lowered the pressure on my crap tires, but the tires i have now i didnt, im reaching 98-99 mph
            1994 firebird formula

            no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

            Comment


            • #7
              Well, with a 98-99 mph trap speed it would suggest that you could reach high 13s with better traction. the 98-99 mph speed could be considered normal. In my quest for shaving ET and increasing MPH, here are a few tricks I did:

              Decreasing the rotating mass off the wheels/tires by replacing with aftermarket. Be sure the tires are sticky!

              lower control arms/relocation brackets/torque arm.

              1 LE aluminum driveshaft for reduced rotating driveline mass.

              Lightweight wheels and tires to reduce driveline rotating mass.

              Throttle body heat bypeass and ice the intake between rounds.

              IAT sensor resistor.

              Cold air intake or K&N for WS6 models.

              LT4 knock module

              airfoil (yes, some work- some don't)

              Underdrive pulleys

              New ECM program

              MSD 6 ignition amplifier


              These basic mods had me running 13.4x still on street radials with an automatic.

              Comment


              • #8
                It's really hard to answer these questions when you don't provide the info people are asking for (3 people have asked "what is your 60-ft time?"), and the answers you do give are confusing.... are you running 103.4MPH or 98-99MPH.

                People are trying to help you, but you are making it very difficult. And I'm trying to help you uinderstand why you aren't getting all the answers you need.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  Psst..... Um, Fred......there were two different people replying and I missed that too the fist time I saw it. He's at 98-99.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    iceing gthe intake would be bd wouldnt it? crack it?
                    1994 firebird formula

                    no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Joe 1320
                      Psst..... Um, Fred......there were two different people replying and I missed that too the fist time I saw it. He's at 98-99.
                      Agree.... my mistake.

                      Let me know if you ever find out the 60-ft time....
                      Fred

                      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        lets c i just found the time slip, it was the 14.33 run was 2.395 -60 at 98.57, the next run was14.38 with a 60- 2.357, at 86 mph and the 8th mile i just ran were 2.354,2.293,2.446,2.443,2.47,2.521, ( not in that order)
                        1994 firebird formula

                        no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Your 60' time is almost 2.4 seconds. It should be down near 2.0. That alone could shave a half second or more off your 1/4 mile time. Try some of the suggestions earlier in the thread.
                          Dave M
                          Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            A fair 60' on streeet radials is around 2.1 so there is room for improvement.

                            going to the track without a sticky tire is almost pointless unless you want to see how your car runs on the street. If you are looking for a quick ET, start with the tires.

                            You might want to invest in a g-tech pro or similar accelerometer. It's one of the best investments for learning how to drive the car for it's best ET. Practice your launch, that will make an improvement.

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