I was searching the LT1 Edit archives because I remember this back when some members were installing Ford 9" rear ends and were trying to get the light to go out. I can't find it there, but I can look through all the printed stuff I have to see if it's there. I'll email you if I find it - but you might have better luck than me searching the archived - ro maybe post at Z28.com's advanced tech forum. Good luck finding it.
Yah I've tried a few times on the Z28.com board search function...tried many different iterations on the terms...I keep coming up with people using LED lights on the wing and how to put in a inline relay to fix their problem...doesnt help me ONE bit...LOL.
What I thought about doing is using my multi-meter and seeing what the ohm reading is going across the points and finding a matching resistor....or I could just cut off the pig tails and solder the wires together...LOL.
I'd rather not do the later of course...
I would appreciate it if you can help me!!!
Thanks broh
KnightFire
1993 Formula Firebird
Check Homepage for mods and photos...
Just thinking out loud, I would think it is more than a matter of "resistance". The ABS computer is looking for a pulse signal from the sensor. If it doesn't see that pulse when it is supposed to (all the other wheels turning) it will light the ABS INOP light. I know with my 12-bolt, the Strange sensor (different than the stock sensor) was extremely hard to adjust - spacing from the gear. If the spacing wasn't correct, the ABS INOP light came on.
Pull the inst panel and remove the bulb????
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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