Yet another problem

[Aaron4TAMU]

Today I get in my car and start it up. I'm thinking "man it's hot in here, let me turn on the A/C". Turn it on and blows nothing but warm air. I figure I could test my luck and go to wal-mart to buy a recharge kit to check/refill the refrigerant. Luck has beat me again. I test the pressure....0. I add the required amount.....still warm. I put a jumper on the low pressure switch......still warm, but the fan came on (not the compressor). After all this I look at the pressure and it has dropped dramatically. So I guess my question(s) is this. Is there a way to test the compressor/clutch to see if they are bad, and know which of the two it is? Is there a place to get a compressor/clutch cheaper than $210? What is a good estimate on how much a shop would charge to locate a leak? Thanks.

[DJ Taso]

I had the same problem with my T/A, I bought the recharge kit from a Track Auto. The second that freeon charged, the compressor turned on, turned out I had a freeon leak. That could be it but I'm not sure.

[Gary94Formula]

If your pressure keeps dropping chances are very good that you have a leak. Get a leak test kit with the dye in it and then use a black light and you'll most likely find it. Also, if you get the pressure high enough the compressor should kick on.

Good Luck

[Aaron4TAMU]

Well, since I used a jumper on the low pressure switch, and the compressor still didn't engauge, I guess it's safe to say that my compressor is shot. Anyone out there changed a compressor out before? Looks like it would be a PITA. And I still can't find one cheaper than $210

[Joe 1320]

Are you sure it's not just the clutch or electronics? If that won't engage, how do you know the compressor portion is bad?

[TraceZ]

Try jumping the clutch directly. I'm guessing the compressor is shot and that is why it wont engage, and the freon leaked out.

[WICKED LT1]

A/C systems are completely closed systems. That means that if you are out of freon, it leaked out. or was released. (i.e. stuck scraeder valve) Normally operating systems do not comsume freon. If you put freon in, and received no pressure, then you most likely have a leak somehwere. It takes about 20 psi of static pressure for the low side switch to activate the compressor. It is a safety feature so that the compressor does not run dry. The theory is that ' no freon means no oil either'. If the compressor starts without oil, it's life expectancy is down to minutes.

If you cannot build the 20psi needed to start the comp, I would not jump the switch. You could end up replacing the compressor. Go out to the ol parts store and you can get some dye to inject into the system to help identify the leak.

Also, most shops will notice if the system is empty, and most likely will not just charge it up. They will want to fix the leak, and they are not cheap, compared to you doing the work. It is illegal for a shop to put R-12 into the atmosphere, so a leak test is their first choice if it seems that a system is having issues.

HTH

-Paul

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Originally posted by TraceZ
Try jumping the clutch directly. I'm guessing the compressor is shot and that is why it wont engage, and the freon leaked out.

I agree. Start by running power from the battery directly to the clutch with the engine off. This will check the clutch. You should be able to connect and hear it clink. Disconnect, clink. Connect clink etc.

[Mike71]

even if the compressor craps out u will STILL have freon in the system (learned that the hard way..hvac repair/install tech for 9-10 months (= )

the compressor usually would have givin u some signs before dying also..they start to sound really really bad before they die usually (least on home types..i have never worked on a car so i am not sure)

if u add the freon and take and take a reading later with the pressure drop that means u have a leak...so id go ahead and locate the leak see what u can find...if u try to jump the clutch and stuff add some freon to the system so if the compressor does kick on itl have some oil in it..otherwise u will have black death in the pipes..which makes for a LONG LONG clean up

[Aaron4TAMU]

I am gonna put a meter on the power connections to see if it is getting juice. Soon as I get the money I'll get one of those UV leak detector kits and try to chase it down. What really sucks is I'm leaving tomorrow for Kansas and I'm not gonna have A/C the whole way I'm just glad I have a little experience with A/C systems (home). Thanks for the help guys, and I'll post my results.

[Mike71]

Originally posted by Aaron4TAMU
I am gonna put a meter on the power connections to see if it is getting juice. Soon as I get the money I'll get one of those UV leak detector kits and try to chase it down. What really sucks is I'm leaving tomorrow for Kansas and I'm not gonna have A/C the whole way I'm just glad I have a little experience with A/C systems (home). Thanks for the help guys, and I'll post my results.

i drive an 80hp beast (tracker) with no PS no AC..u can deal =)

[xxRillixx]

Im working on my system this weekend, ill try to remember as much as possible and give you a report... Im haveing to drive around Vegas w/ no AC!

[Aaron4TAMU]

Well, I checked the power wires to the compressor, and guess what.......nada...zip. I can't help but think the people who did my rear might have messed it up, but why would they be under the hood? I don't know much about electrical, so where should I start on tracing the power back? Oh, and how would I engauge the clutch directly from the battery? Thanks.

[WICKED LT1]

Just a quickie.. Check the A/C compressor relay. Worth a shot.

[Aaron4TAMU]

Originally posted by WICKED LT1
Just a quickie.. Check the A/C compressor relay. Worth a shot.

This may sound like a stupid question, but where is it, and what does it look like?