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Question about installing SLP bolt-on subframe connectors

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  • Question about installing SLP bolt-on subframe connectors

    I bought SLP bolt-on subframe connectors for my 97 TA, and was trying to install them tonight. When I put the first SFC into place, I had a hard time aligning all the holes, specifically the hole that bolts onto the Lower control arm. I could get it to the point where every hole was lined up but that one. Also, the front of the SFC is very tight against the y-pipe, which doesn't seem right, but I don't see any other way it could be installed.

    Out of frustration, I was just going to put it back to stock for now until I got these questions answered... When I went to put the LCA back into place, it's hole doesn't line up either! The LCA seems to have shortened about 1/4" to the point where the hole in the LCA doesn't line up with the hole in the chassis, and I can't reinstall the bolt! So now I've got 3 misaligned holes in this one location! Can anyone give me any pointers or tips on how to get all the SFC holes to line up, and how to get the LCA to line back up to it's stock location? I'm at a loss here.

    I didn't try installing the driver's side SFC so I can't tell if maybe it's a manufacturing defect or just something I'm not doing right. Any help would be appreciated. I'm supposed to get the car inspected Friday, but it won't be going anywhere in this condition.
    Dave M
    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!



  • #2
    It could be quite possibly the way you are lifting the car. Try jacking the car or placing the jack stands in a different spot under the car.

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    • #3
      I thought of that, the chassis flexes so easily that it could be the case. I have the car up on jackstands nice and level though, so I would think everything should line up. Any tips on how to place the stands? Right now I have them under the rear axle and the front control arms. It looks like if the chassis were lifted a little in the middle the holes might line up. Maybe I'll have to try placing the jack in the center and lifting slightly?
      Dave M
      Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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      • #4
        frame flex

        The center of the car will flex downward if you suspend the car from the suspension. Move the stands closer to the center of the car from front to back. When you get the weight balanced the subframe should line up more or less. The other option is to replace the jackstand on the front with a jack and lower the car until it lines up. obviously don't do this while under the car. The way I've had the most luck with other types of cars is to put the jack stands just in front of where the subframe connector will be, then put the jack under the front crossmember and jack up until the holes line up.

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        • #5
          Read this. Not SLP I think but .....

          http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthre...rame+connector
          97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


          1and1 Web Hosting

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          • #6
            When I went to put the LCA back into place, it's hole doesn't line up either! The LCA seems to have shortened about 1/4" to the point where the hole in the LCA doesn't line up with the hole in the chassis, and I can't reinstall the bolt!
            That happened because you are supporting only the rear axle. The LCA's are the only thing that holds the rear axle assembly in the correct front-to-back relationship to the body. The axle has move backwards on you, making the LCA appear too short. I've seen this happen when people attempt to swap out the LCA's without putting the rear jackstands under the subframes, and supporting the center of the rear axle with a floor jack.

            Do whatever you have to do with the jacks and stands to get all the holes aligned, but leave the bolts "loose" after you get them in. Then get the car on a lift that supports all four wheels in a level postion before you actually tighten the bolts.

            It might not be a bad idea to weld up the ends after you get everything bolted in, to prevent the possibility of the bolts tearing the sheet metal of the subframes as the body flexes. I have a sturdy roll bar and custom chrome moly SFC's, all welded together at the sub-frames, and once when nthe car was on jackstands, the pin would not go back into the drivers side swingout bar. The cause was a very low pressure passenger side front tire.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              Even with my jack stands on the subframe, I had the same problem when I installed these SFCs on my car. Basically, I just pulled the rear tire forward until I was able to align the holes. it wasn't a whole lot of fun. If you have a way of bracing a bottle jack against the tire, you can push on the rear tire until the axle aligns properly. I did it by hooking my foot around the tire and pulling it forward, but it takes a little strength to do so. Also, I installed the rear first followed by the front. The exhaust pipe sits against these connectors on the '96-7 LT1 cars. I had to bend the pipe away from the connector which was a pain trying not to dent it in any way. every now and then, at idle, the exhaust rattles against the connector. Anyhow, the connectors work great even just bolted in...I love mine! I will probably weld them in after I am done with the car. Good luck!!!
              '77 K5 rock-crawler project
              '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
              '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
              '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
              '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
              My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

              I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
              Thomas Jefferson

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              • #8
                First of all I agree that your rear axle moved backwards on you when you had the LCA disconnected. Moving the axle forward on that side should get it back into position. The easiest way to do this might be to jack up the rear of the car and support the rear axle with jack stands. Temporarily block the front tires with a couple pices of wood too. Remove the bolt from the LCA and then move those wood blocks a tad from the front and back of the tires and push or pull the front of the car by hand.......since the front tires will still "roll" while the axle will remain stationary on the stands, you should be able to get it realigned in the correct hole. Just have someone help you when you do it and dont push or pull the car too hard.

                As far as the installation of the SFC's are concerned, there are a few key things you have to do to get the car properly postioned before you begin work so nothing will move on you. Get the front tires up on ramps or blocks............put a block of wood in front of and behind each front tire. Then raise the rear axle so the car is level and support the rear axle with jack stands directly under the axle. With the front tires "blocked" and the rear axle firmly supported by jack stands there is no way the car or the rear axle will move when you disconnect the lower control arm bolts. And only undo one LCA bolt at a time. This is exactly how I did mine and I had no problems whatsoever.
                Dave S
                2000 Black Camaro SS

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                • #9
                  well, I lifted the differential up with the jack and moved the jackstands to the subframes, then slowly lowered the axle... the holes lined right up! Installation was a snap after that. Got the passenger side done and the all the driver's side bolts out and that side is ready to be installed, but now I have to go to work. Should be no problem finishing it up though, thanks for all the help guys! You saved me a lot of headaches and frustrations!
                  Dave M
                  Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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