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  • Transmission Diagnostic

    Well took the car to the transmission shop and they did a road test, Visual diagnostic and hooked it up to a computer and did a diagnostic on the tranny and found nothing wrong. I do have a B&M shofter that is on the car but the wire had burned off and not connected anymore.But they think it might have messed up my computer on my car anyon have any ideas what I can do?They want me to take it to a dealer and have them hook my computer up and diagnose it. Any one have similar problems ?Refer to my post back a day or two ago for more info. Please help. This is for a Automatic 1996 z28 . Other message is below:

    -I am writting due to a problem with my 96 z28. It is a automatic with like 93,000 miles on it. If I stomp on the gas and it gets to readline at like 5100 rpm-7000 range it starts to just roar and doesn't change gears. But If I let the car go through the gears at normal rpm range it is fine. What could the problem be and what am I looking at price wise to fix it? The fluid is also black color (Trans. Fluis) it is supposed to be a pink color. If I do a tranny service will that work ? Please help.

    -Matt
    dj_flavor@hotmail.com



    Thanks,
    Matt

  • #2
    Re: Transmission Diagnostic

    Originally posted by MPalumbo82
    I do have a B&M shofter that is on the car but the wire had burned off and not connected anymore.

    Are you referring to the B&M shift improver module? If so, ditch it. Increasing the line pressure is a temporary way to increase shift firmness. Evidently many people have reported burned fluid, clutches, part breakage, etc. from using these. If that module is not working correctly, that may be the source of why your fluid is black (burnt, dirty). Hopefully, the trans was flushed and new fluid and filter installed while it was at the shop?

    I was experiencing problems with my 4L60E about 6 months ago. It wouldn't shift correctly, had 102K miles and was in need of a refresh. My low sprag was toast, the clutch materials were really thin and I had managed to crack the Sun shell. The trans was rebuilt with a 23 element low sprag, Corvette servo, upgraded clutches and NO SHIFT KIT. Yes that's right, I went against the grain on this. My trans builder isn't totally sold on shift kits in the 4L60E. According to him, enough messaging of factory and upgraded parts can give equal results when using a stock converter and he feels that shift kits are too hard on the trans. My trans will blow the tires on a WOT 1-2 shift, hits 3rd firmly but not harsh and ditto for the 3-4 shift. I do have a Hypertech HPP+, but I don't use the additional shift firmness feature. Don't need it. The remaining time in regular driving the trans shifts nice a smooth, yet positive. I've tried using the firmer shift option, but the 1-2 hits so hard that it is useless. The 2-3 shift hits hard and kind of makes the car a little unsettled, the 3-4 shift is equally hard. The end result is a less than enjoyable run. The car ETs a hair slower with increased firmness due to excessive tire spin. I suppose if I were running slicks or drag radials, I might see a gain by messing with the firmness.

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    • #3
      few thoughts

      I am no tranny expert but.... I think it could be one of the bands slipping, and causing burn, which would indicate the black color. Plan for a rebuild very soon. Some things are best left to the experts, and auto tranny's fall into that category (for the most part) too much to go wrong IMHO. but that's just my 2cents
      1995 Firebird Formula
      (A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers ,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]

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