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  • Coolant Problem

    I just bought a 1994 Camaro Z-28 about a month and a half ago from a local Chevy Dealership where I traded in my old 1992 RS. The car has run fine, but this past week the low-coolant light has been coming on.

    I checked the coolant level, it was a little low so I topped it off, and the next day the light came back on, and the coolant was low again. I topped it off again, and once I drove to work I got out and looked and there was a slow but steady drip coming from the passenger side front bumper, sure enough it was anti-freeze.

    The past couple days I've just been topping it off with water because I really don't want to waste any more anti-freeze. Even if I fill the resevoir all the way up to the neck where I can see the fluid, the low coolant level light is still on.

    Any and all suggestions on what the problem might be, it'd be greatly appreciated.

    All the while, the car has been running fine, it will heat up normally in traffic but cool back down to the running temperature once the car gets moving again. It isn't running hot, but I want to get this taken care of because the Florida Summer is coming in with a full head of steam, and yesterday it hit 94.

    Thanks Again

    -Joe Blaze

  • #2
    If the "low coolant" light stays on, even after you fill the radiator to the top, there is a good chance the sensor is either dirty or broken - this is a VERY common problem. You could pull the sensor and try cleaning it out. If that doesn't work, replace it. If you are rigorous about checking your coolant level regularly, you could just unplug the sensor and the dash light will go out.

    Obviously, the leak needs to be fixed. Because of the "reverse flow" cooling of the LT1, it is extremley sensitive to air buildup in the system.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      To add to what Fred just posted, the cooling system is a closed system with an recovery tank. This is not merely an overflow tank like the old days. This new system allows for the expansion of the fluids when hot, the recovery of fluids as is cools. This is why ther are level markings on the recovery tank that shows hot and cold levels. If you continue to overfill the radiator or the radiator cap isn't functioning 100%, the levels will never normalize. There must not be a breach in the system either or the recovery of fluids as it cools will not happen. Plastic tanks on radiators have been known to crack and allow a breach.

      Bottom line is check the radiator cap, bleed the air from the system and do a cooling system pressure check. Any leaks will show up. While you are at it, if you are concerned about the coolant level sensor which is prone to failure, replace it. If not, pull the harness connector at the sensor and the dash light will go out.

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