mean cam?

[abmcbballer]

What is the meanest cam for an LS1 camaro SS with the lopeyist sound. I already have cut outs so i just need long tubes and a y pipe to go with that and i should have a mean sounding car- yes?

[fastTa]

Here is a list of popular LS1 camshaft grinds:

http://www.cmotorsports.com/engine/l...ft-design.html

Once you start to get into about the 224 range the cams will have a nice lope to them.

If I were you, I would go with the T-rex cam from Thunder Racing! They made 451 RWHP with that cam and stock unported heads. The car also had all the bolt ons. It is a pretty big cam though and not very street friendly if your car is your daily driver.

It will all depend on how much driveability you are willing to sacrifice.

Do you have an M6?

[abmcbballer]

its an A4, its my daily driver, what do you mean about keeping it street friendly...gas?

[fastTa]

Originally posted by abmcbballer
its an A4, its my daily driver, what do you mean about keeping it street friendly...gas?

Well there is A LOT to choosing the right cam for yourself.

Generally speaking, as duration increases so does upper RPM horsepower. However lower RPM torque will consequently decrease. Lower RPM torque is what gets your car moving from a stop. So on the street, lower RPM torque is very valuable.

Lift can be increased as well to make more power, and does not have as negative an effect on lower RPM torque as increasing duration does.

While the entire camshaft profile (duration, lift, ramp rates, overlap) will dictate idle quality, valve overlap usuallly has the biggest effect on idle quality(lope) and tuning ability. Valve overlap is controlled by the lobe separation angle(LSA). Generally speaking a LSA of 112-116 will have less overalap and thus less lope and will be easier to tune. Therefore a cam with a LSA of 106-110 will lope much harder and will be more difficult to tune. Most of the "common" LT1/LS1 cams are between 112-115.

You asked about gas mileage. Well again generally speaking the more the duration and the lift the more fuel that will be allowed to enter the cylinder. Also the more valve overlap (numerically lower LSA), the more fuel that will be allowed to be blown out the exhaust valve during overlap.

One other thing to note is that generally as duration and overlap increase, lower RPM and idle vacuum decrease. Many accessories are run off vacuum(especially your power assisted brakes)so vacuum can become an issue with too "big" of a cam.

The reason I asked you about whether you had an A4 or M6 was because with an M6 you can essentially rev the motor as high as you want while engaging the clutch off the line to compensate for lost lower end torque due to the bigger cam. With an A4 you have to use a stall converter with bigger cams.

Sorry for the book! Just thought this info would be helpful.

[abmcbballer]

thanks a lot for the info, i needed a book, i dont know very much at all about cams so thanks a lot, any thing you tell me is more than i know!

[fastTa]

You would probably be happy with something like this:

224/224 .563/.563 112 LSA

Not too big not too small. With stock umported heads and goood headers, cat back, LS6 intake, you should be able to make around 390 RWHP.

[abmcbballer]

somebody suggested the MTI X1 (230/227 .591in/.571ex 112 lsa) Got a link to hear it and it sounds like what i like. what do you think?

[fastTa]

Originally posted by abmcbballer
somebody suggested the MTI X1 (230/227 .591in/.571ex 112 lsa) Got a link to hear it and it sounds like what i like. what do you think?

Yes that would be a pretty good choice. That is a split pattern cam and would work pretty well with stock unported LS1 heads. The piston to valve clearance will be very close on that combination so make sure.

Just a reminder that you won't be just replacing your cam but also your valvesprings. And while your there go with titanium retainers and locks.

Are you planning on having this done somewhere locally?

[Ravven]

TH400 is the best in my oppinion, my 67 'bird still has the factory TH400, after all these years of abuse, it's strong as ever..


BTW, how doo I get photos on my posts and replies?

[abmcbballer]

yeah, i would like to keep it local

[fastTa]

Listen to this cam. This is a TSP 231/237 .598 .595 112+2 through open Pacesetter longtubes. Keep in mind it was just installed and is running on the factory tune in the vid.

http://www.movie-host.net/version3/i...pg&directory=&

This cam will work better with your stock heads and will idle slightly better with built in 2 degree advance.

You really don't want to go much bigger than this unless you want to run a 4000 or bigger stall on the street. Get's old after a while.

[abmcbballer]

i couldnt open the link you sent but i found a car with the same cam and pace setter longtubes and i assume its the same black camaro with chrome wheels, yes? If it is....IT SOUNDS INSANE!!! I want that!!! now you said that was with factory tuning, im guessing that means it will need to be re-tuned, when re-tuned will it sound less aggressive? What is a 2 degree advance, is that something the cam just has or something i would need to get?

[fastTa]

Originally posted by abmcbballer
i couldnt open the link you sent but i found a car with the same cam and pace setter longtubes and i assume its the same black camaro with chrome wheels, yes? If it is....IT SOUNDS INSANE!!! I want that!!! now you said that was with factory tuning, im guessing that means it will need to be re-tuned, when re-tuned will it sound less aggressive? What is a 2 degree advance, is that something the cam just has or something i would need to get?

Probably the same car. That video has made it's way around the net pretty fast.

Yes you would definitely have to have the PCM re-prgrammed but it won't neccesarily remove any lope, it will just start much smoother and be optimized to run with that cam.

When you install a cam you must synchronize it with the crankshaft rotation so that your valve timing is synchronous with the stroke of the piston. This is called degreeing a cam.

Most cams are ground, or designed to be installed or "degreed" straight up.

Now you can "retard" a camshaft which delays the valve timing in relation to piston stroke. This pushes the power curve "up". Meaning you will make peak power at higher RPM's and a little more of it. Or you can advance a cam which does just the opposite as above.

This "advancing" or "retarding" is normally done by phsically installing the cam turned clockwise or counter-clockwise 2-12 degrees in relation to the crank.

A "ground in" 2 degree advance is this. This just means that the way the lobes were ground on the cam gives the cam an automatic 2 degree advance even though you intsall the cam "straight up".

How confused are you now?

[Aaron4TAMU]

Originally posted by fastTA
How confused are you now?

LOL! I hope not as confused as I am

[Jay 02 TA ws6]

Originally posted by fastTA
If I were you, I would go with the T-rex cam from Thunder Racing! They made 451 RWHP with that cam and stock unported heads. The car also had all the bolt ons. It is a pretty big cam though and not very street friendly if your car is your daily driver.

It will all depend on how much driveability you are willing to sacrifice.

Kevin, do you have a little more info on that cam? For instance, what RPM does it redline at? And what kind of highway fuel economy would it get?

I am willing to sacrifice quite a bit of road manners as far as idle, lopiness, and surge are concerned... but I want highway fuel mileage to stay above 24 or so...

I also want to end up with a cam that would put my shift point at around 6700 or 6800 RPMs...

If that's not the cam for me, any ideas what I should be looking for?