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  • Window motor problem

    My driver's side window just started messing up. It'll go up or down a few inches - then stop. If I try again, it doesn't budge. But if I drive for like 5 mins, it'll go a few more inches. I have to repeat this to get it fully up or down.

    Is the motor shot? If so, is it a hard swap?

    Any help is appreciated!
    thanks
    Jeff
    99 SS, MTI Lid, 3.90 gears, Hurst shifter, DMH 3" e-cutout

  • #2
    Yep.
    Not hard.
    Instructions http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      boooooooooo

      Thanks for the info buddy, i'm sure this will make it easier.
      99 SS, MTI Lid, 3.90 gears, Hurst shifter, DMH 3" e-cutout

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      • #4
        If you have a buddy to help you it will make it ALOT easier. I can't imagine doing it by my lonesome. Oh yeah and autozone seems to be the best source for them, good prices there.....Good luck

        96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-

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        • #5
          Jeff 95 Z28 - wanted to tahank you for the link. Did it this morning, and it was pretty cake! Except for the part where I drilled a hole straight through the rivet, then straight through my middle finger - but some blood loss was expected!

          Thanks!

          And Autozone was $52, no core charge.
          99 SS, MTI Lid, 3.90 gears, Hurst shifter, DMH 3" e-cutout

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          • #6
            Originally posted by JeffM
            Jeff 95 Z28 - wanted to tahank you for the link. Did it this morning, and it was pretty cake! Except for the part where I drilled a hole straight through the rivet, then straight through my middle finger - but some blood loss was expected!

            Thanks!

            And Autozone was $52, no core charge.
            Maybe Rob should put a warning about this in the procedure.

            I hate when that happens. I got my fingers hurt tons of times but not with a drill, and I don't really want to try it either.

            Hope it's not too sore.
            97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


            1and1 Web Hosting

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            • #7
              Yes, don't get it from the dealer, they wanted 100 with 1 year warranty, autozone is half price, lifetime warranty. Very easy fix, I did it myself, no need for two people. A partner will only get in the way. Basically drill 5 holes. Do yourself a favor and buy some gold oxide or titanium bits. Makes the job a lot easier.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Black97
                Maybe Rob should put a warning about this in the procedure.

                I hate when that happens. I got my fingers hurt tons of times but not with a drill, and I don't really want to try it either.

                Hope it's not too sore.
                Who in the heck puts their body parts behind something they are drilling? Oops, now I know.
                Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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                • #9
                  I only had to drill 3 holes on mine. I did it myself in about 20 minutes or so. To do it by yourself, you need a nudie magazine and.... oops, off topic

                  Actually, all you do is put a screwdriver through the regulator so it holds the window up. Then you can remove and replace the window with no problems.
                  "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Rob B (shoebox)
                    Who in the heck puts their body parts behind something they are drilling? Oops, now I know.
                    Hahahaa.. Yes, I know.. it wasn't one of my brightest moments!

                    I was trying to hold the motor up because it was the last rivet! hahaha

                    And yes, it's healing nicely!
                    99 SS, MTI Lid, 3.90 gears, Hurst shifter, DMH 3" e-cutout

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                    • #11
                      [i]Actually, all you do is put a screwdriver through the regulator so it holds the window up. Then you can remove and replace the window with no problems. [/B]
                      Grrrr I wish I knew that when I did mine. I was holding the window for about a 10-20 minutes while my friend was putting the motor back in. Oh well I guess I'll know for next time
                      Later

                      96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-

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                      • #12
                        i use a c-clamp to hold the window up. hook it around the bottom of the window and the top of the door and lighty tighten it.
                        93 black trans am (under construction)
                        cheap gas

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 93blackta
                          i use a c-clamp to hold the window up. hook it around the bottom of the window and the top of the door and lighty tighten it.
                          yep, that's what I did.
                          99 SS, MTI Lid, 3.90 gears, Hurst shifter, DMH 3" e-cutout

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