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  • 10 bolt

    i've been hearing that these 10 bolt rear ends are pretty weak... i spin first gear alot with stock tires 275/40-17 potenzas and i was wondering should i throw some real slicks or just go with drag radials i doubt i push over stock torque, and whats the chance of popping the rear end when they hook?
    Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

  • #2
    auto or manual?
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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    • #3
      Re: 10 bolt

      Originally posted by Hobbs95
      i've been hearing that these 10 bolt rear ends are pretty weak... i spin first gear alot with stock tires 275/40-17 potenzas and i was wondering should i throw some real slicks or just go with drag radials i doubt i push over stock torque, and whats the chance of popping the rear end when they hook?
      Yes they are. Autos are a little more forgiving than manuals. If you have tire slip, there's less of a chance of breaking something for sure. A girdle with preload studs can help keep flex under control and can add a little strength, but high rpm clutch dumping is going to take out these rears pretty quick. There are guys in the 11s using automatics and they seem to work, I see guys with stock manuals and drag radials break the rear. So if there is the slightest concern about the strength and your intended useage, better to swap in a beffier unit.

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      • #4
        Re: Re: 10 bolt

        Originally posted by Joe 1320
        So if there is the slightest concern about the strength and your intended useage, better to swap in a beffier unit.
        I'm going with the "replace it after it breaks" theory. Not like it's something that could cause engine damage if not beefed up ahead of time.

        Unless of course it's your daily driver.
        '95 Trans Am - A4, LE2 heads, LE1 cam, 1.6 ProMags, Comp R's, AS&M CAI, AS&M 54mm, MAC midlengths, Random Tech. cat, Borla cat back, PCMforless, Vigilante 2800, 3.73's, BMR LCAs/panhard/shock tower brace

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        • #5
          its an auto
          i have a friend with a 02 its a 7.65 he's been running around 13 flats with stock diff w/ 3.73's and drag radials and oh yeah a torque converter2800 stall speed. hasn't broke apart yet but i was wondering is the 98 and up 7.65 stronger this is my daily driver... anyways thanks
          Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

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          • #6
            No...the 10 bolts are all the same...strength wise. Some are better than others...which one do you have? You'll know the first time it breaks. (LOL) Mine is holding together. (4.10's and M6 too) But I've spent big bucks to do so. No slicks yet, but no slop yet either. Oh yeah, when they break, they cost big bucks to fix. It's usually cheaper to get a 12-bolt at that point (in the long run).
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #7
              i've got a 7.5... it has the 2 carrier 3.08's and down... it had 2.73 gears and i swapped them for some Strange 3.42 thick. they whine when decellerating but i've heard thats just gonna happen. i haven't
              Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

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              • #8
                ... i haven't had any problems either but i do plan on putting this car into the 12's down the road and i want to keep it for a while too.
                Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

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                • #9
                  Whine when decelerating? Not normal...I've got Strange 4.10's...no noise whatsoever. My guess...you used the stock crush sleeve. These things are prone to failing. After several hard launches, the crush sleeve compresses beyong the initial lash setting. This cuases slop in the pinion depth setting. When this happens, they whine. I used the Ratech crush sleeve eliminator kit. It replaces the sleeve with solid shims which once set, can't compress. If the rear is whining, it's wearing. The only gears that I know off that seem to whine no matter how well you set up the rear are Richmonds. Not really sure why, but it probably has to do with tolerances and how they are cut. I would open up your pumpkin and check the ring gear for wear marks. If your pinion gear is movin' in and out, it's cheaper to fix it now than wait for the damage to progress any further. I open mine up frequently...just to keep an eye on things and verify all's well. Takes only a half hour to do....

                  Oh, and in case you confussed, the 7.5 inch rear that you say you have...it's 7.65 inch. The same as the current LS1 cars and the S10 pickup trucks. The 7.5 inch 10-bolt is another animal all together. This is why you'll hear most of us refer to the rear as the 10-bolt. There is a bit of confusion as to the numerical size....some say 7.5 inch, but really mean the larger of the 10-bolts as they smaller variety was never used on the 4 th gen. F-bodys.
                  Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                  Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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                  • #10
                    And also not to be confused with the 8.5 inch 10 bolts that never made it into our cars.

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                    • #11
                      i personally didn't do the gears but i watched my friend who did them... is the pinion crush sleeve inside or outside the back od the diff cuz i am actually thinking that he left the stock one in and i have heard that before... i'll check tomarrow if the gears are wearing funny. i've had them on for a good 1000 miles and i've read some posts saying whine is normal, but i'll get back tomarrow... i look into that ratech thing too i drive 25 miles to work 6 days a week so fix it before it breaks is my motto. thanks
                      Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

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                      • #12
                        The crush collar is in-between the pinion bearings (inside the diff) on the pinion gear shaft itself. If your running Richmonds, expect the whine. If not, they should be relatively quiet. Its probably not the gears that are causing the whine (although it can be), but the pinion bearings. Best way to check if the preload loosened is to take off the driveshaft and turn the pinion with a torque wrench - look for about 15-18 inch lbs before it starts to turn.
                        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                        • #13
                          they are strange not richmonds i still haven't opened it up yet tomarrow
                          Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

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