Does your battery meter move?

[SteveKaz]

Guys,

I just had my third optispark installed a few weeks ago (the horrible rain in Northern VA ruined #2).

They put a new optispark and plugs and wires in. In the past week, i've got a check engine light that has come on for about 20 minutes and then gone out.

The thing that worries me is that the battery meter used to stay in one place. Now it wiggles when i'm in drive and idling.

I'm just curious, does your meter stay stationary? I think mine used to before Optispark #2 was installed. It wiggled a bit after #2 and it's wiggling now after #3.

I don't know if it's a plug/wire thing, an optispark thing, or if it's trying to tell me that the battery or alternator is going bad. I guess i'll have someone run the code to see what's up, but i'm going to be some kind of pissed if it's something wrong with the repair that i just paid $1,500 for...

Any thoughts?

[SteveH95Formula]

usually when I start the Volt meter climbs a bit past 14V. On a hot day with the air and stuff on it will go down to about 12 or 13 when I have a high demand on it. Some times my alternator will fail completety when I have too much on. Both fans running and my lights and sterio but if I put it in neuteral the alternator kicks back on. It usually does not move much from 14V though.

[hotwhip9]

My volt meter when i start it up is around 14 or so, while im driving it's at 13 or so and when im idling with the stereo on its almost in the red. That's because of the stereo and amplifiers in the car. If you don't have a stereo or any other miscellaneous items that would draw the power your meter should stay pretty stationary.

[SteveKaz]

...

yeah, mine usually used to run at 14 or so.

I wasn't talking about it moving down to 12 or 13 and then staying stationary there. As i'm sitting at a red light and idling, it's wiggling back and forth about an eighth of an inch (and i'm not turning things on or off or making any changes that would draw power) and it seems to idle a bit rough. Maybe one of the plugs that they put in has a problem.

I called the shop and the guy is going to run the code for me to see what's up. An extra $70 or so and it's just going to end up being something that they screwed up in the first place.

[96TAragtop]

Well, mine has NEVER dropped below about 13.2V or so... And that was sitting at night with the A/C and all the lights on.

My gauges shimmies a bit too, and Ive noticed it is usually caused by the fans kicking on and off. I have the PCM reprogrammed for fan #1 to kick on at 171 and #2 at 183. As they kick on and off, the volt meter tends to jump down .5-.8 V, for a very quick moment, then bounces back to 13.5-14V. Ive noticed it jumps a little when I step on the brakes too (brake lights ).

Some movement is normal, but it is tough to say w/o seeing it myself.

-George

[pete]

You can have the code run at Autozone for free if you have OBD2. If you have wild swings of the voltage meter, in conjunction with the engine rpm, chances are the alternator is failing (the built-in voltage regulator).

Now since you have had "water damage" to your car, the possibility is that the alternator was also damaged.

All these repairs may be covered by your automobile insurance, call your agent.

[96TAragtop]

Originally posted by pete
You can have the code run at Autozone for free if you have OBD2. If you have wild swings of the voltage meter, in conjunction with the engine rpm, chances are the alternator is failing (the built-in voltage regulator).

Now since you have had "water damage" to your car, the possibility is that the alternator was also damaged.

All these repairs may be covered by your automobile insurance, call your agent.

What type of policy do YOU hold??? I can't even get a tow through my insurance.

[pete]

Tows cost me an extra $7 per year for coverage. Water/Flood damage is standard coverage in Michigan.

Ya just gotta ask..... or read the fine print!

[SteveKaz]

...

Thanks guys.

Forgive my ignorance, but what's OBD2?

I considered asking my insurance if it was covered, but it was $1,500 total (plugs, wires, and Optispark work). I figured that the invoice said something like 900 was for the Opti work and the other 600 was plugs, wires, intake system cleaning, etc. (and that they'd argue that those were normal maintenance issues).

Personally, i wouldn't turn a $800 repair in to insurance (with a 500 deductible) because they'd just raise my premiums anyway.

[96TAragtop]

Originally posted by pete
Tows cost me an extra $7 per year for coverage. Water/Flood damage is standard coverage in Michigan.

Ya just gotta ask..... or read the fine print!

Tow coverage was an extra $20 a MONTH here. Wasn't worth the $240 a year for me.

[96TAragtop]

Re: ...

Originally posted by SteveKaz
Thanks guys.

Forgive my ignorance, but what's OBD2?

I considered asking my insurance if it was covered, but it was $1,500 total (plugs, wires, and Optispark work). I figured that the invoice said something like 900 was for the Opti work and the other 600 was plugs, wires, intake system cleaning, etc. (and that they'd argue that those were normal maintenance issues).

Personally, i wouldn't turn a $800 repair in to insurance (with a 500 deductible) because they'd just raise my premiums anyway.

OBD2 = On Board Diagnostics, Rev 2. OBD2 came out in ALL cars in 1996. Most California emmissioned cars got it in mid 1995. OBD2 is typically much more sensative to glitches in the car's systems than OBD1. A gas cap being off can oftentimes cause an SES light.... or a random misfire.... or a fart in the wind, for that matter. Many people with HEAVY engine/transmission mods on their <96 models, have changed their PCM to a pre 1995 system to avoid the problem.

here is a really good write up on OBD2:

http://www.obdii.com/

-George

[wolfdogs]

he said "all the rain"... rain is not water damage. i live in the NVA are too.......... if you drive in the rain...or whatever......and your car gets messed up.....insurance wont cover that...at least on insurance im aware of.

my two birds stayed dry undercover in the garage during that whole mess..... it realy was terrible. rained 29 out of 33 days........

[Formulaboy95]

Check the Alternator wiring....

Could be a bad ground, or corrosion on the +terminal for the alternator. Also check the battery terminal connections.

[Formulaboy95]

almost forgot...

If they did the plugs, then they probably removed the alternator to get the #2 plug. If they didn't put the +wire to the alt back on tight enough, that could have an effect. Or mabey the water had some effect on the negative ground to chassis. I had a problem where corrosion on the negative ground post would give a check engine light, I cleaned the terminals, and tightened... and it went away.

[pete]

One of our field guys tried to make his new Toyota pick-up go across a 4' deep flood across a highway a few years back. Needless to say the rocket scientist didn't make it. The engine sucked water and bent a rod, during the rebuild at the dealership (he tried for warranty repair), someone got his insurance to pay for it.

Amerika! Vhat a kountry! Be an idiot, and someone else pays for it......