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My car is munching rotors!

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  • My car is munching rotors!

    Are the rotors on my car another known problem? I have < 25K miles on it and have had my rotors replaced once and turned 2 times. They keep getting warped. I do not run my car that hard - still have the original F1s - not a street racer....usually. The mechanic told me today if you are going to keep the T/A I would buy some aftermarket rotors.

    Is my car going to continue to eat these things? Any suggestions on replacements?

    Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



    Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

    Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

  • #2
    I've heard of other 98 & later cars having warped rotors, but not as bad as yours, and Yes, you might get some beefier aftermarket rotors that might take the heat better. I have also heard of a LOT of bad replacement rotors out there, but it was mostly Ford guys complaining that aftermarket replacement & Ford parts rotors were bad out of the box. If you bolt on some new rotors, they should be checked with an indicator to see if they have too much warpage. Also it's important that your brake calipers are floating on the pins and not binding

    I'm curious whether you have been careful breaking them in and using a torque wrench on the lug nuts. If you have the car serviced for new tires or rotors, you can't assume that they did the torque right and you need to redo it everytime. Driving habits also can have a big effect on longevity of brake parts. For some reason My brakes & clutches always seem to last forever, but a lot of that is just how I drive. You have to be easy on new rotors or else use a brake in procedure to seat the pads - more info on the Baer web site about this.

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    • #3
      i have some oem replacements from slp, and they seem to be working fine, no warping so far, had them for 10k plus miles.
      2006 GTO Impulse Blue Metallic, Blue Leather Interior
      Traded in: 1998 Z28
      http://www.cardomain.com/id/hotwhip9

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      • #4
        i would just bite the bullet and buy some driller slotted rotors...eventually u will need the better breaking anyways

        u can even go a little larger in size..then do like a 4 piston caliper


        edit: also if u are having execisve pad wear or heat build up in the fronts..it could be because the backs are not properly tuned in..so the front breaks are having to do all of the work

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        • #5
          Casey...... stop using your brakes.
          Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

          Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

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          • #6
            Damn Jay why didn't I think of that! Kevin - I always torque the nuts properly but did not think of checking their work I will do that. I had planned on an upgrade anyway but LATER! I have longtubes and a cam to buy!
            Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



            Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

            Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

            Comment

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