The ses light is on, like always, so it seems. I had the codes ran, can't remember what they were but they said that the 02 sensor on the driver side near the cat needs to be replaced. So should i just replace the 02 sensor, or should i get the sims so i never have to deal with it again?
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o2 sensor/sims?
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o2 sensor/sims?
2006 GTO Impulse Blue Metallic, Blue Leather Interior
Traded in: 1998 Z28
http://www.cardomain.com/id/hotwhip9Tags: None
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Well, since you are still running cats, you should probably just leave the sensors and try to diagnose the problem a little further. First, you need to remember what the code was because the code can be for any one of four different O2 sensors. If it is one of the front sensors, you can try to swap in a good working rear sensor for the bad front sensor. Or you can pay the 60-80 dollars for a new sensor, but again, you will need to know which sensor it is, so you dont remove a good sensor and accidentally leave the bad one in. Again, you will have to find out what the code was.
Hope that helps. Good luck
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it was the drivers side closest to the motor2006 GTO Impulse Blue Metallic, Blue Leather Interior
Traded in: 1998 Z28
http://www.cardomain.com/id/hotwhip9
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Don't the pre-cat and after-cat sensors have different connector shapes, to prevent you from erroneously connecting the wrong sensor to the wrong plug? One has a "square" connector and one has a "straight" connector... or is that just on the LT1's.
Next, if you need an O2 sensor, they do not cost $60-80, unless you pay list price from a dealer. Jason Cromer or Dal Slabuagh (or even gmpartsdirect.com, but watch out for the shipping charges) will sell you genuine AC/Delco (Delphi) 4-wire O2 sensors for about $35.
Finally.... get the exact code. There are multiple codes for each sensor.... heater circuit, slow response, "rich", "lean", etc.. If you have a bad heater circuit, could be the wiring. If the response is slow, its probably the sensor. If it is a "rich" or "lean" condition, it could be the result of an engine problem.... e.g. misifre, exhaust leak before the sensor, leaking injector, etc. I would get the exact code and diagnose the source of the problem before starting to replace parts.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by Injuneer
Don't the pre-cat and after-cat sensors have different connector shapes, to prevent you from erroneously connecting the wrong sensor to the wrong plug? One has a "square" connector and one has a "straight" connector... or is that just on the LT1's.
Next, if you need an O2 sensor, they do not cost $60-80, unless you pay list price from a dealer. Jason Cromer or Dal Slabuagh (or even gmpartsdirect.com, but watch out for the shipping charges) will sell you genuine AC/Delco (Delphi) 4-wire O2 sensors for about $35.
Finally.... get the exact code. There are multiple codes for each sensor.... heater circuit, slow response, "rich", "lean", etc.. If you have a bad heater circuit, could be the wiring. If the response is slow, its probably the sensor. If it is a "rich" or "lean" condition, it could be the result of an engine problem.... e.g. misifre, exhaust leak before the sensor, leaking injector, etc. I would get the exact code and diagnose the source of the problem before starting to replace parts.
Now that I think about it, maybe the connectors are different. I really cannot remember, since its been so long since the last time I was underneath the car. But I am remembering that the connectors are the same. Anyway, I tried to tell him to get the exact code, but if he know what sensor it is, I guess thats the way he will go with it.
I didnt realize GM parts would have the O2 sensors that cheap. Thanks for the heads up
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ill get the code tomorrow. I was thinking sims, though because future mods, wouldnt that just be easier than having them read messed up all the time depending what is done?2006 GTO Impulse Blue Metallic, Blue Leather Interior
Traded in: 1998 Z28
http://www.cardomain.com/id/hotwhip9
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fastTa
I believe the LS1's are the same as LT1's. Square 4 pin connector out back and flat 4 pin connector at the manifold.
Which like Injuneer said, prevents you from swapping the sensors since the sensors are setup to be in a specific spot within the exhaust stream.
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