someone help

[95redbird]

i have a 95 formula with the lt1 and i changed the distributor and now the car wont start it cranks and sounds like its way out of time and acts like the battery is dead and its not if anyone has any clues whats goin on please help

[ryan34]

I don't wanna sound like an a**hole but did you put a new rotor in?

[ryan34]

It could be something that simple that you may have overlooked, is all i'm saying.

[95redbird]

on the lt1 its an opti and its sealed from what i see put i did put a new coil on to

[N20LT4Bird]

Youve got to make sure the opti is engaged on the dowel pin on the end of the cam. It will drop into place. You shouldnt have to "draw it down" with the bolts. Make sure it is properly seated on the end of the cam. Otherwise, check your wiring - make sure its plugged into the connector.

Other than that, if you changed the distributor to fix a no start, maybe you didnt change the right part and further diag is needed.

Theres really not a whole lot to screw up - if its lined up and wired up, it should start unless you have a bad opti. Was it an OEM replacement?

[TraceZ]

Here are some basic ideas....

First test for spark.

if there isnt any, put the old coil back on it. Your new one may be defective.

if that doesnt help, make sure all the connectors are seated properly.

Test an injector to see if it is firing. If the opti is not producing the proper pulse, the injectors will not open.

I have seen a LT1 no-start flowchart somewhere... I'll see if I can find it.

[Joe 1320]

Here are the diagnostics to trace the ignition system.......

Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.

Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.

Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.

If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark.

It is possible to install the optispark misaligned to the drive pin. It may exhibit a no start, or make it run like it was 180º out.

[95redbird]

i heard from someone that yopu can put the opti on and it will be 360degrees off on the pin so i pulled the number 1 plug and it was sparking put it felt like it was sparking on the exhaust and not on the compression stroke is this possible if so can i pull the opti off turn the pin one full circle and fix it??

[Coop '02Z]

Like Joe said, turn it 180 not 360, 360 would put you in the same place.

EDIT:
Like Joe didn't say. 360 is not what happened, and the steps he wrote should get you there. Sorry for the misquote Joe

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Originally posted by 95redbird
i heard from someone that yopu can put the opti on and it will be 360degrees off on the pin so i pulled the number 1 plug and it was sparking put it felt like it was sparking on the exhaust and not on the compression stroke is this possible if so can i pull the opti off turn the pin one full circle and fix it??

I think you mean 180 degrees. http://shbox.com/1/opti_back.jpg No you can't get it 180 degrees out.

Funny story. I used to program CNC machining centers. Since that was my only job (I didn't run my programs) I had to fill out a "set up sheet" that told the machinist how to orient the part to the print. I usually put something like this program does the main view as shown or the right view rotated 90 degrees CW. Well joking around, one day I put this program does the main view rotated 360 degrees. I had forgotten about it when about a week later I walked out in the shop and I saw this one machinist looking at a drawing. He then rotated the drawing 180 degrees (flipped it over) then he walked around the table (180 degrees). I walked up to him and asked him if there was a problem. He handed me my setup sheet and said he didn't understand the rotated 360 degrees. I laughed. I said this is the print as shown. I then rotated the print 360 degrees. Of coarse it looked the same as it did and said I was joking. He never did understand. Oh well.

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by Coop '02Z
Like Joe said, turn it 180 not 360, 360 would put you in the same place.

No, no, no...... I did not say turn it. I said if the pin was not in it's channel, it may run like it was 180º out. All it has to be is on either side of the channel and it will either no start or start misfiring like crazy. If the dowel pin version is too long, it puts internal pressure on the potispark, quickly destroying the internals.

[95redbird]

i got it running now but it acts like its only hitting on a few plugs and die when you give it gas

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Originally posted by 95redbird
i got it running now but it acts like its only hitting on a few plugs and die when you give it gas

I had that happen to me on another car. It turned out to be the tube from the MAF to the throttle body wasn't on good.. I felt so dumb. I have a hard time getting mine (95 Z28) on without the lip rolling under at the throttle body. It's a simple and cheep check.

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by 95redbird
i got it running now but it acts like its only hitting on a few plugs and die when you give it gas

Did you check everything over real good? How about the dowel pin alignment we are talking about? Did you feel the opti drop in real snug with the timing cover or did you have to draw it down with the bolts to make it sit flat against the timing cover?

[azkkn]

did you put on a NEW GM opti? or a used one?, or a remanufactured one?