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  • Moser rear end ?

    The pinion bearing on my stock rearend has crapped out and I've decided not to spend money on the stock unit and to go with a Moser 12 bolt due to all the horror stories about stock rearends being junk.
    My question is; will the aftermarket BMR rear end components in my sig bolt up to the new Moser with no problems? Also will a 93-97 ILE aluminum driveshaft bolt up with the Moser? (I currently have the stock steel DS)
    97' SS #497 1 of 50 White Hardtop M6,stock TB reworked to 52mm,SLP CC shorties, Random Tech DC Y-pipe, LT4KM, Taylor Spiro's and NGK's, BMR Adj Lcr's, TA, Boxed SFC's, Adj PHR, Floorpan brace w/ driveshaft loop, STB, GM 4:10'S, 1LE alum DS, Eibach 35mm front swaybar and Pro-Kit Springs, Bilstein HD's, Lou's speed stick with Hurst ball,LS1 front brakes, Earl's lines, Hawk Pads, BMR relocation brackets.

  • #2
    The Moser 12-bolt has several dimensional issues that may cause you some problems.

    -the axle tubes are larger than the 10-bolt, so you will need new U-bolt mounts to hold the sway bar on - Spohn sells them.

    -The torque arm mounting location is a shade more toward the drivers side. It requires a torque arm with holes offset about 1/2" to the left on some TA designs. Spohn's TA's now include holes for the Moser location, as well as the stock 10-bolt.

    -The mounting brackets for the LCA's are a different width... if you have LCA relocation brackets, they won't work on the Moser. Spohn sells the correct brackets for the Moser. If you have aftermarket LCA's, the LCA's will fit the Moser, its just the relo brackets that are different.

    As far as the driveshaft, some people who have bought the Moser rear have had problems with the driveshaft length, and damaged the tailshaft of the tranny, because the stock length ends up too long. It isn't 100% of the cases, but maybe 1/2. In any case, you first need to check your stock DS for length, AFTER you install the Moser. To fit the back end of the 1LE DS in to the Moser pinion yoke, you will need a "cross-over" U-joint that matches the end of the 1LE (1320?) to the one on the Moser (1350 - if you buy a HD pinion yoke, which you should.).

    The more I hear about the Moser, the more I like my Strange 12-bolt.

    -fully assembled, with lube and LSD additive, run in at the factory. The moser comes in pieces, you have to have you old brake backing plates relocated to the Moser, there are shims required, which Moser sometimes forgets to include.

    -I'd say I see at least 5 times as many complaints about gear noise from a Moser as I do from the Strange.

    -Strange includes the cross-over U-joint of your choice.

    -Strange includes the 33-slpine carrier, 1350 pinion yoke, and the LPW aluminum rear cover with pre-load bolts.

    The seeming price advantage of the Moser disappears rapidly, if you pay someone to check the gear setup, swap the backing plates and assemble the rear. A friend of mine was quoted $800 by a shop.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      There have been a few local speed shops that have sent back several Moser 12 bolts due to a consistency in poor quality welds. I would have to agree and say that for the extra money, the Strange complete unit is the way to go.

      While Strange center sections, and differentials are typically deemed to be be of better quality, Moser does have one distinct advantage over Strange, and that would be their axles. They are put through a much better heat treating process and known to be stronger.

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      • #4
        Thats why you make your own! .......Just kidding, I wouldnt suggest anyone torcher themselves like that!
        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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        • #5
          Thanks guys; that's exactly the kinda info I'm looking for. Sounds like Strange is the way to go; any Moser owners want to chime in?

          Also; due to the axle tube diameter being larger than my stocker will the rear end stick up higher since the spring mount will be higher? I was going to add Eibach springs too so would it be safe to say I should go with the 1.3" drop springs on the front and 1.8" drop springs on the back to get an even stance front to back?
          97' SS #497 1 of 50 White Hardtop M6,stock TB reworked to 52mm,SLP CC shorties, Random Tech DC Y-pipe, LT4KM, Taylor Spiro's and NGK's, BMR Adj Lcr's, TA, Boxed SFC's, Adj PHR, Floorpan brace w/ driveshaft loop, STB, GM 4:10'S, 1LE alum DS, Eibach 35mm front swaybar and Pro-Kit Springs, Bilstein HD's, Lou's speed stick with Hurst ball,LS1 front brakes, Earl's lines, Hawk Pads, BMR relocation brackets.

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          • #6
            would a (" with a detroit locker take the traction control and anti-lock brake pieces on its rear

            also what is the good and bad about a locker rear .. given the 12-bolt is weaker, but I really don't know enough between the 2 to determine what is the best setup

            I do drag racing, but want the strongest rear, but do not want to give up my alb's and tc.. and the ability to go around sharp corners


            given people go to 9" are the ones that break the 12-bolts

            can you help edjucate me?
            Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*

            2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
            Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
            pics and info

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