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  • #1

    SES Help...and more

    Hey guys, i while back I had a friend check my computer on the car for trouble codes. He has a laptop with the autotap program. It was ringin up the two O2 sensor codes behind the cats on both sides and then an air system code also. I dont know the numbers. I bought O2 sims and had my cats removed to take care of that problem. What is the air system code all about. A couple other problems are present also.......The car idles really rough. It will be idling fine and then start jerkin a lil, not throwin the tach off bad but it moves a little. It seems to do this more after the engine gets warmed up. I stop at a stop light and it just starts hesitating, like a misfire, but no codes are present to indicate a misfire. Also whenever i turn on my AC or Defrost it makes a clicking sound when idling when it kicks on. Also may be an oil leak in that area.
    Thanks for any help.
    Jason
    BTW- I have a 97 T/A, Auto, 105,000, FLowmaster w/ removed cats.
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  • #2
    The air pump was subject to a recall. Evidently, the internal solenoid is prone to moisture contamination. The contacts corrode, the air pump malfunctions and it throws a code. The dealer will replace the air pump as long as you have less than 100K miles. You may also want to check the underhood fuse box, make sure all the fuses and relays are intact. That could be the source of the intermittant poor idle quality. As far as the oil leak, where is it coming from?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Joe 1320
      As far as the oil leak, where is it coming from?
      It seems to be dripping from the area around the harmonic balancer.....an exact location I dont know. Maybe the oil pan. I have 105,000 on my car so im guessing the dealer won't replace it?

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      • #4
        It wouldn't hurt to try to get them to replace it. The worst they could say is no. I do know a buddy of mine had his engine all apart and took the air pump to a dealer and they exchanged it. He was lucky. The oil leak is most likely the front crankshaft seal. It is an easy repair, simply remove the belt, remove the damper, remove the hub. Pry out the old seal, drive in a new one. I will warn you that if the crank seal is leaking, most likely the other seals in the front cover are usually not far behind. There are two other seals in the front cover, the water pump drive shaft seal and the opti spark seal. The others require the removal of the water pump and optispark, as well as the air pump to get to them. They are the same type of seal, so with those kind of miles on them, they are probably close to leaking if not already. I had to do mine about 15K miles ago.

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        • #5
          Actually Joe, it's kinda funny..... I just had my engine pretty much rebuilt about 4,000 miles ago. The camshaft was causing a knocking sound in the engine. I replaced the opti, waterpump, and he put new rod bearings and cam bearings in and stuff like that. So everything should be alright. Maybe it is the crank seal, I'll have to get it checked out. What do you think could cause that clicking sound when the AC and Defrost Kicks on? It's obviously a pulley or something right? Sometimes when I put the car in reverse with the brake on I can here it too. Also is there any way I can find out what is causing that hesitation at an idle. I checked the fuses, everything looked to be in tact. Could it be the ignition or something? Coil?

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          • #6
            If the motor was just gone through, take it back back to the builder. All the seals should have been replaced, so it is reasonable to assume that they would take care of it. Check with them to find out what seals were replaced. The clicking sound could be a number of things. Is it an occational ticking or is it a steady rhythmical ticking? Does it increase with rpms or is it constant? The A/C clutch clicks when it engages and clicks when it disengages. If there is a low refridgerant charge, it may cycle off and on repetedly. We'll have to narrow down a few things before we can give an educated guess.....

            The hesitation could be coil, plugs/wires, optispark, vacuum leak, bad ground, IAC, air pump, dirty/fouling injectors, the list can go on and on. It would be worth investing in a shop manual and step by step diagnose each system.

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            • #7
              Well the guy that did my motor gives a month warranty on his work. That was a year ago. I'll have to take it and have him check it out. The ticking sound is just a constant ticking, and as far as I know, only at idle. Maybe I can't hear it under acceleration though? Like I said though, sometimes I hear the sound w/out the AC on when I put it in reverse and let it idle with the brake on. Maybe the air pump is causing the hesitation being that I do have the air system code up???? Is the air system code definately the air pump? Or could it be other things? Wouldn't most of the other things, e.g.: plugs/wires, opti, coil, injectors, set off the SES light for a misfire of some sort? I'm not really knowledgable on fixing cars. I can do some things but I'm nowhere near a mechanics abilities.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Joe 1320
                It would be worth investing in a shop manual and step by step diagnose each system.
                Where can I get a LT1 shop manual? And how much would it cost me?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jason97T/A
                  Where can I get a LT1 shop manual? And how much would it cost me?
                  New manuals are $120 http://helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

                  You can get used ones on Ebay or other used manual dealers that are on the 'net. A search should find them.
                  Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jason97T/A
                    Well the guy that did my motor gives a month warranty on his work. That was a year ago.
                    Bummer....

                    Originally posted by Jason97T/A
                    Is the air system code definately the air pump?
                    9 times out of 10 it is the air pump. It could also be the fuse in the underhood fuse box.

                    I am curious if you have ruled out the ticking sound being an exhaust leak. Sometimes a slight exhaust leak fools people into thinking that it is a mechanical tick. An exhaust leak would also affect the mixture as the 02 sensor on the side of the leak would show rich.... then the computer pulls fuel out to put the mixture where it should be, only now it would be lean. (can cause misfire and/or stumbling). I would put a scanner on it and read the 02s from bank to bank. If you notice inconsistancy from bank to bank, that could be a sign.

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