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3rd Gen Fuel Pump Relay

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  • 3rd Gen Fuel Pump Relay

    I'm not 100%, but i think i need to replace my relay.

    Initially, the fuel pump started to stay on 24/7, even when the engine was off... i couldn't figure out the problem, so i ran a kill switch.

    Now, every now and then, it functions normally and i dont need to use the killswitch when i turn off the engine, and sometimes, the fuel pump just wont turn on.

    So i'm thinking i need to replace the fuel pump relay, only problem, i can't find the damn thing!

    1989 Camaro... tried unplugging every relay in the engine compartment, and no luck.. any help is appreciated!

  • #2
    What engine do you have? I can almost guarantee it's next to the passenger side fender on the firewall next to the brake booster. There should be 2 relays in that location, a fan relay and a fuel pump relay. If you are looking straight at them while standing at the front bumper, the fuel pump relay will be the one on the left and the fan relay will be on the right. Both of the relays are exactly the same, so if you would like to test to see if it's your relay, switch the two. Of course, don't run the car for too long because if your FP relay is bad your fans won't kick on. Don't forget, relays are pretty cheap, though.

    Hope this helps.
    1991 Chevy Camaro RS (Is it plum or purple?)
    Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
    Trans: TH700R4
    Mods: Some

    CarDomain Site

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    • #3
      I'm on my way now to pick up a replacement relay from schucks, but i still have to figure out which one to replace!

      Anyone know a good way of testing a relay?

      The engine is a 2.8 V6... but theres some inconsistencies, the body and i'm not sure how much else is from a V8, so it gets confusing...

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      • #4
        As far as testing a relay, you must first understand what they do. Basically, a relay acts as an electronic switch, when power is provided to one side, an electromagnet is activated and it (On old-style relays-but new ones work similarly) closes a second circuit, which is the "load". Generally the load circuit has much more current (amps) than the trigger has, as the trigger is usually connected to a light-duty switch. Relays, in a sense prevent dashboard switches from burning out, and keep high currents from being run through the computer (Which avoids electromagnetic interference).

        So, if you jump a low amp current across the trigger side of a relay you should see continuity on the load side, and hear a light click. Keep in mind this is a model of a simple relay, but the same principle applies to complex ones.

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        • #5
          Ok, well i'm pretty sure it's not the relay now.
          I switch the fuel pump relay, and the fan relay, didnt do a thing.

          I tried to start the car after cleaning out all the contacts on both relays, and it started but died after about 20-30 seconds... the wires on both ends, at the connections in the engine compartment at the fuse, and the connection to the fuel pump under the car were very warm, which leads me to belive the pump motor is burned out, because if i remember correctly a dying motor will draw much more current than it should.

          I also think theres a short somewhere which caused this problem in the first place... unless i get some breakthrough idea, it's going to a shop monday :'(

          I got quoted $450 to replace the fuel pump, does that sound about standard? I gotta shop around before i tow the car to a garage

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          • #6
            I would definetely shop around first. I'm not sure how much the typical price is for putting in a new fuel pump, but that seems just little high to me (again, I am not sure, though).
            1991 Chevy Camaro RS (Is it plum or purple?)
            Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
            Trans: TH700R4
            Mods: Some

            CarDomain Site

            Comment


            • #7
              I highly recommend that you purchase a Haynes or Chilton's manual, they should tell you everything that needs to be done to replace almost any part on the car.

              And I know that I personally would not pay $450 to have the fuel pump replaced, unless the damn thing was inside the engine itself and the engine had to be taken apart to do it....


              Red '02 Z28 M6 - purchased 6/24/04 with 11,706 miles
              CAGS Eliminator

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 02Z28
                I highly recommend that you purchase a Haynes or Chilton's manual, they should tell you everything that needs to be done to replace almost any part on the car.

                And I know that I personally would not pay $450 to have the fuel pump replaced, unless the damn thing was inside the engine itself and the engine had to be taken apart to do it....

                I'm not sure on a 3rd gen, but from what I've read about a 4th gen, changing the fuel pump (without cutting a hole) involves disassembly of the rear, so you can drop the gas tank. It is a PITA, but still don't think that price is low enough.
                '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 02Z28
                  And I know that I personally would not pay $450 to have the fuel pump replaced, unless the damn thing was inside the engine itself and the engine had to be taken apart to do it....
                  Funny you say that, you're pretty close... it's inside the fuel tank. To get the pump out, you have to take the tank out, which means either removing the exhaust or dropping the entire rear end... and i already do have a chilton, that thing rocks.. but still doesn't help when it's something too involved

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