i am trying to install 3.73 gears in my 95 camro but the orginal gears will not come out does anybody know how to do this or what i might be missing. thanks.
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i surely don't hope you don't use this as a daily driver... it's more than nuts and bolts. you can take it out if you want but i'd leave it to a professional with experiance in this area. Some of the other guys have horror stories i am sureBlack 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks -
You should read this thread
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthre...&threadid=49202002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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thanksComment
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yeah
unbolt the back cover , unbolt the bolt holding your pin in, get pliers or a screw driver and squeeze the lock in the differential, and knock out your pin, you also have to push in your axle shafts to get the c clips off after you unbolt the tire and calipers then unbolt your 4 bolts holding in the differential, make sure you see what way goes up and down. pull or pry it out but watch where your shims go on each side of the differential bearings. change your bearings also. your supposed to buy a special tool that takes out your whatever its called that is around your pinion gear. unbolt the ring gear, bolt the new one in your supposed to by a new lock then put everything back together your going to need to buy new shims, because you have to measure the flow between your pinion gear and your ring gear. so the fluids gets in between there and you don't burn it up bu having metal to metal. I think its 4 thousands. it's about a 6hr if you drop your differential your screwedComment
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Looks like you hit "new thread" rather than "post reply". I'll move this to the correct thread.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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As the above link says, you need to MEASURE many variables (backlash. preload, pinion depth). You need a dial indicator and pinion depth guage, micrometers etc...... Its not rocket science, but it does take expertise. If you have no idea....dont attempt it. You will screw up unless yo are very patient and can read detailed instructions and are good with the above tools. Better to have someone who knows help with your first couple of rearends.
If your saying "duh" I already know how this is done and your just stuck on getting the carrier out - then I misread your question. Get two pry bars and and extra set of hands - pry on the carrier against the case and be careful not to let pieces fly!96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
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