tranny shifting very late

[ryan34]

i have a 91 camaro rs, when i gun it, my car doesn't shift untill after 7000 rpm. That is dipping the needle on my tach. It does it through every gear. The redline is like 5500. I'm afraid i'm going to break something in my tranny or my motor. I am going to change the fluid and filter. Any idea if that would help? If not any suggestions would be helpful.

[wood]

I have this same problem with my 700r4 I guess the only thing you can do is flush it, change the filter and hope for the best. You can also buy a bottle of stop slip at advanced auto or a similar store.. but that's more of a temp fix if anything at all.

If you hotrod your car something will end up breaking.. sucks.

[AmericanZ28]

Sounds like worn clutches to me You might end up needing a tranny rebuild. The used tranny fluid is usually a good indication of its condition. Depending on how the tranny fluid looks, a tranny flush and fill might really help you out.

[TruckMuddr]

is it slippin or is it not adjusted right??

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I'm not positive but I think that is controlled by the modulator valve. I have seen them that had a set screw in it that you could adjust the shift point. They are not expensive. I think GM uses them. See if anybody post more info on it.

[N20LT4Bird]

If its not slipping, then it probably just has too much throttle pressure. Now, the question is - did the cable get misadjusted somehow, or is the valve hanging up in the valve body? Try giving the throttle cable a couple of tugs (its attached to the throttle and runs down to the tranny). If it moves free, try adjusting it. THeres a specific way to adjust it, you can look it up on google (you can probably find pictures too) - it involves one person putting the pedal to the floor and the other holding the button to get the basic adjustment. Just move it little by little until you bring the shift point down. If it doesnt do anything, then the valve is probably hanging on the tranny and would need the pan dropped and the valve body gone through to free up the valve. It could also be a governer issue, but I doubt it.

[ryan34]

is it slippin or is it not adjusted right??

Its not really slippin, just shifting past 7000 rpm. and thats only when i floor it. when i finally change the fluid and filter i'm gonna adjust the kick down bands (sorry if i called it the wrong thing, my friend is the car expert not me) I'm hopin that helps it. If not i'm eventually gonna rebuild it anyway.

[Benm109]

Try adjusting the TV/detent cable.

The TV cable is attached to the throttle lever. The TV cable adjuster (not sure of real name for it) is located on the throttle bracket. All you have to do is push in the D-shaped button on the adjuster (you have to be on the passenger side to see it), pull the black cable back towards the firewall as far as it will go, then release the button. Then get in the car and slowly press the accelerator pedal to the floor. You should hear the cable ratchet or click. Now you are done. Go out and test drive it. You can keep adjusting the TV cable at different places to get the tranny to shift at different RPMs. If this doesn't help you out, I think your tranny's on its last limb (just like mine )

Also, are you sure that your tach is right? 3rd gen factory tachometers are notorious for being inaccurate. What does it read at idle? It should read from about 600 to 750 RPM. Mine shoots up anywhere from 1500 to 4000 RPM at idle. Might want to try installing an aftermarket tach to see if your stock one is correct.

[ryan34]

The TV cable only adjusts the downshifting. The shift points change a little. I can get the car to shift IN the redzone instead of past it, but then the downshifting sucks donkeyballs.

[ryan34]

Try adjusting the TV/detent cable.

The TV cable is attached to the throttle lever. The TV cable adjuster (not sure of real name for it) is located on the throttle bracket. All you have to do is push in the D-shaped button on the adjuster (you have to be on the passenger side to see it), pull the black cable back towards the firewall as far as it will go, then release the button. Then get in the car and slowly press the accelerator pedal to the floor. You should hear the cable ratchet or click. Now you are done. Go out and test drive it. You can keep adjusting the TV cable at different places to get the tranny to shift at different RPMs. If this doesn't help you out, I think your tranny's on its last limb (just like mine )

Also, are you sure that your tach is right? 3rd gen factory tachometers are notorious for being inaccurate. What does it read at idle? It should read from about 600 to 750 RPM. Mine shoots up anywhere from 1500 to 4000 RPM at idle. Might want to try installing an aftermarket tach to see if your stock one is correct.

Sorry for not reading the whole thing. My idle is anywhere from 1000 to 1500. But even so, i don't think i should dip the needle in my tach. Its a bit scary.

[N20LT4Bird]

The TV cable only adjusts the downshifting. The shift points change a little. I can get the car to shift IN the redzone instead of past it, but then the downshifting sucks donkeyballs.

You may have other issues inside the tranny (like governer or something). A set of pressure gauges and a good diag session is needed. You most likely dont need a rebuild. If it is shifting through all the gears firmly, then it is most likely a control (valve body) problem. You may need to take it to a GOOD tranny shop. Explain to them that you want it FIXED and dont need a rebuild. A good tech will be able to fix that problem without dropping the unit.

[TruckMuddr]

Ok, Try this. This should fix your problem.

The 700 R4 Transmission found in 1982 thru 1993 General Motors vehicles with the overdrive transmission relied on a Throttle Valve or TV cable to control throttle pressure in the transmission. This is how the transmission shift feel and timing is determined. An out of adjustment TV cable can cause severe transmission damage if left unattended, and can cause poor fuel mileage as well. Most 4L60 / 700R4 Transmissions should shift at 15, 30, and 45 MPH at light throttle. To determine proper cable adjustment, it takes 2 people to set up the initial adjustment.

Step 1: To Determine which cable is the TV Cable, simply remove the air cleaner on carburetor models to view the throttle linkage and cables, and on fuel injected models this should be visible. The TV cable is a stranded metal cable, silver in color, with a black outer cover, and the end should be attached with a small black clip to the throttle linkage, with the adjustment housing attached to a bracket about 3 to 4 inches back towards the fire wall. and the cable running on down to the transmission. As you depress the throttle or gas pedal, the TV cable is pulled out longer from the action. Stroke the throttle with the engine OFF to determine which cable is being pulled longer as the throttle is opened, usually connected to the bottom of the linkage.

Step 2: The adjustment button on the TV cable housing is sometimes difficult to reach, with the many bracket designs GM introduced over the years. Once you locate the TV cable adjustment button at the end of the cable housing, you should be seeing or feeling a square metal button about 3/4 of an inch by 1/2 an inch sitting flush with the cable housing which is plastic.

Step 3: Set cable to max TV Pressure by depressing the adjustment button either by finger or small pocket screwdriver. Be careful the spring is kind of tough. A little pressure may need to be applied. When the cable adjuster unlocks the housing will spring towards the front of the car. While holding in the button reach behind the metal bracket and pull the cable housing toward the fire wall until it is maxed out.

Step 4: With cable set to Max TV, and engine OFF, have someone sit inside vehicle and depress gas pedal firmly to the floor, be sure to move any floor mats from under gas pedal. When max throttle is reached, the TV cable should sound with a ratchet noise while it is being pulled to position. This is your base starting point, with TV Throttle Plunger at Wide Open Throttle, while the gas pedal is at wide open throttle.

Step 5: Road test your vehicle. Initial shifts at light throttle should be 15, 30, and 45 MPH as a baseline. After the 1-2 shift, at about 25 miles an hour, immediately press the accelerator to the floor and the transmission must down shift to first gear. If it does not down shift to first, stop the vehicle and adjust your cable 1 click away from throttle linkage (toward fire wall), and road test again. This same test should be done on the 2-3 shift under medium to light throttle at 45 MPH, immediately after the shift, depress the accelerator to the floor, and the vehicle should shift to second gear. Finally, at 60 mph in fourth gear, you should be able to floor the accelerator, and the transmission should down shift to second.

Finish: Under light throttle you should have a 1-2 shift at 15-18 mph, 2-3 at about 30-35, and 3-4 at about 45-50 mph. You must get a kickdown to first at 25 mph, and you must have a 4-2 kickdown at 55-60mph.