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  • Headers question.

    What is the difference between long tube and short tube? And what brands for headers & exaust are recommended -> 93 Z28?

    Im thinking about making it a true-dual, X pipe. Is it worth going from the single-to-dual to true dual?
    99 Z Hugger Orange 9/05

    93 Z 6/03


    Zaino!!

  • #2
    good luck. a true dual with an x pipe will give you this much ground clearance:

    '




    long tubes evacuate better for more hp.

    The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

    2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

    Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
    Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
    sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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    • #3
      Didnt think about that... I know little about this stuff ... only what i hear. Just looking to learn more while working on my car.

      ---headers---
      chrome vs ceramic vs power coated vs wrapped?

      The dynatech headers have good reviews (a little pricey), but how do other brands stand up?
      http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...62&prmenbr=361

      ---exaust---
      what is the best way to go? custom vs pre-made
      99 Z Hugger Orange 9/05

      93 Z 6/03


      Zaino!!

      Comment


      • #4
        whatever you do, don't wrap them. I've known cars to burn to the ground because a small oil leak soaks the wrap, then the headers get so hot that the oil soaked wrap burns. Ceramic coated would probably be your best bet.
        Dave M
        Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


        Comment


        • #5
          Ceramic Coating is the absolute best way to go! Powder coating will eventually burn off, and chrome will also begin to rust after time. Plus, the ceramic coating helps to keep the underhood temps down! If youre going to go with long tubes, I would suggest Hooker Headers. They sell for a reasonable price, and are as good as, if not better than most other brands. Unless you plan to make some MAJOR horsepower, these are the perfect set! I wouldnt waste time with a true dual type exhaust. Thats not really for these cars, and there are far more cons than pros. I would suggest a 2 2 1/2" to 3" Y pipe with high flow cats to bolt up to the Hooker Long Tubes. The cat back is up to you, just make sure it doesnt hold back the flow of the now better breathing exhaust Unless you can find a shop that has a mandrel machine, it would probably be best to go with a pre-made cat back!
          1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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          • #6
            Ok, here is the list of parts for my make&year . How are these prices, and which would be the best bang for the buck. Oh, and is it important to get headers and cat-back from same brand?

            For the cat-back:
            Borla (EXPENSIVE!!)
            Edelbrock
            Flowmaster
            Hooker

            Headers:
            Hooker
            Hooker painted
            BBK
            Edelbrock
            Pace setter

            and dynatech
            99 Z Hugger Orange 9/05

            93 Z 6/03


            Zaino!!

            Comment


            • #7
              I've always had a question about headers and since I've been working alot of overtime lately I'm ready to pick some up but want an answer. Do they really need to be coated. I have a 94 with stock manifolds and they haven't rusted through yet. They're not coated are they? Whats the difference I hear everyone talk about getting coated headers but does it really matter.
              1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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              • #8
                Coated headers is the way to go. Mine are coated and if you can touch them after the car has cooled for 15-20 minutes. They really keep the heat down - cooler underhood temps = more power. Not to mention they look better than rust. Go with Swain Technologies. They are near me in Rochester and are personal friends of mine + they are the best!
                96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                • #9
                  Dynatech Headers, Random Technologies Cat, and the SLP loudmouth (about $300)
                  1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 94 formula
                    I've always had a question about headers and since I've been working alot of overtime lately I'm ready to pick some up but want an answer. Do they really need to be coated. I have a 94 with stock manifolds and they haven't rusted through yet. They're not coated are they? Whats the difference I hear everyone talk about getting coated headers but does it really matter.
                    It matters. Coatings are a very nice enhancement. As mentioned, they keep the heat in the tubes and less in the engine compartment. They make the headers last several times longer as well, because, even though your stock manifolds never rusted thru, they are thick cast iron and headers are usually 16 ga or less steel. The heat cycles, vibrations, & hot exhaust cause them to rust & crack much sooner than you expect. It is a lot of work and expense to get them on there, so you will want it to last a while - more than a couple years.

                    Even though I bought stainless steel headers, I still coated them and was never sorry I spent the extra money.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      AmericanZ28 where can you get all of that for $300?
                      1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 94 formula
                        AmericanZ28 where can you get all of that for $300?
                        Shoulda specified a little better. I was refering to the SLP Loudmouth Cat-back. It not as high in price as some of the higher end exhaust systems, but it performs just as well. The Loudmouth usually goes for something around $300 plus shipping when theyre on special
                        1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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