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help with shaft from water pump

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  • help with shaft from water pump

    take off the caps lock key. read the rules of this forum.
    1994 Trans Am GT
    http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
    Ram Air hood and airbox
    headers
    exhaust
    lowered 2"
    underdrive pully
    sloted rotors
    electric water pump
    air foil
    denso plugs
    taylor wires
    tinted windows
    eagle rims
    2000 watt stereo

  • #2
    I am assuming you are doing an electric water pump? The bearing for the water pump shaft is press fit into the block. Knock it out with a socket. Then just plug the hole in the timing cover.

    Comment


    • #3
      yes the water pump.. do i need to remove the timing cover to do this? if i know it off with a socket will it be in the timing cover?


      wolfman had retyped your message in lower case.
      1994 Trans Am GT
      http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
      Ram Air hood and airbox
      headers
      exhaust
      lowered 2"
      underdrive pully
      sloted rotors
      electric water pump
      air foil
      denso plugs
      taylor wires
      tinted windows
      eagle rims
      2000 watt stereo

      Comment


      • #4
        file://C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\Owner\Desktop\TRANS% 20AM\CSI%20Water%20Pump%20Installation.htm. here are the answers to my questions if any one wants. i was not getting what i needed so i kept looking. seems like you do not have to remove the shaft. there is a bearing pressed into the block and 2 screws holding it in. you have to totaly remove the timing cover and chain to get this shaft out. might as well change the timing gear the as well. seems to me like over kill. i am going to check the price of a new timing set and it is to much i am putting in new seals and putting it back together
        1994 Trans Am GT
        http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
        Ram Air hood and airbox
        headers
        exhaust
        lowered 2"
        underdrive pully
        sloted rotors
        electric water pump
        air foil
        denso plugs
        taylor wires
        tinted windows
        eagle rims
        2000 watt stereo

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by rufrider76
          file://C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\Owner\Desktop\TRANS% 20AM\CSI%20Water%20Pump%20Installation.htm. here are the answers to my questions if any one wants. i was not getting what i needed so i kept looking. seems like you do not have to remove the shaft. there is a bearing pressed into the block and 2 screws holding it in. you have to totaly remove the timing cover and chain to get this shaft out. might as well change the timing gear the as well. seems to me like over kill. i am going to check the price of a new timing set and it is to much i am putting in new seals and putting it back together
          be very carefull putting in the new seal for the shaft. you need to press it on perfectly or you will leak. been there done that.

          The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

          2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

          Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
          Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
          sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

          Comment


          • #6
            Rufrider, I was doing the cam at the same time as the water pump, so I had the intake off. I'm not sure what you're supposed to do if you just want to do the pump because I don't think it's a good idea to leave the shaft in there. The reason is that there is only one bearing and on the other end is the seal to keep it from wobbling. Then you have the gears meshing somewhere in between. There could be inconsistent gear engagement and grinding if that shaft starts moving around with no water pump bearing to support the other end.

            On the other hand, I think some guys have just left the shaft & gears in there and maybe you can check on a few forums to see a consensus whether or not there is long term damage from leaving it in. If the seal is good & stiff, maybe it will just sit there & turn, but I looked at it and decided the shaft had to come out. Obviously, this presents a problem for the guy who just wants to do a pump upgrade and not open up the engine.

            The other thing, is that you can use a much cheaper timing set because you don't need the fancy water pump gears that only the LT1/LT4 uses.

            Comment


            • #7
              okay i decide to remove the timing cover and replace the chain. waht timing chain set up can use now. any for a small block?. i have stripped my pulled trying to remove the snout of the dampner. any tricks to this?
              1994 Trans Am GT
              http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
              Ram Air hood and airbox
              headers
              exhaust
              lowered 2"
              underdrive pully
              sloted rotors
              electric water pump
              air foil
              denso plugs
              taylor wires
              tinted windows
              eagle rims
              2000 watt stereo

              Comment


              • #8
                The damper bolts to the hub which is press fit on the crank snout. After the damper is removed, a high quality steering wheel puller will remove the hub.

                Comment


                • #9
                  i guess the auto zone special wasot a good puller. i strripped the cente bolt on the puller
                  1994 Trans Am GT
                  http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
                  Ram Air hood and airbox
                  headers
                  exhaust
                  lowered 2"
                  underdrive pully
                  sloted rotors
                  electric water pump
                  air foil
                  denso plugs
                  taylor wires
                  tinted windows
                  eagle rims
                  2000 watt stereo

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    When pulling the 3 pronged hub off the crank, you might have to put something in the bottom of the threaded hole to push against because the hole in the back of the hub is the same diameter as the threaded hole in the crank. If you don't take this precaution, you might be pushing against the hub itself, and not the crank. In that case, you will break something if you try hard enough.

                    I think that I got a piece of 5/8 fine threaded, hardened rod to use witht he puller. And I also used another piece of the rod along with some nuts & washers to act as an installer to get the hub back on there.

                    Comment

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