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help with shaft from water pump
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yes the water pump.. do i need to remove the timing cover to do this? if i know it off with a socket will it be in the timing cover?
wolfman had retyped your message in lower case.1994 Trans Am GT
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
Ram Air hood and airbox
headers
exhaust
lowered 2"
underdrive pully
sloted rotors
electric water pump
air foil
denso plugs
taylor wires
tinted windows
eagle rims
2000 watt stereo
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file://C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\Owner\Desktop\TRANS% 20AM\CSI%20Water%20Pump%20Installation.htm. here are the answers to my questions if any one wants. i was not getting what i needed so i kept looking. seems like you do not have to remove the shaft. there is a bearing pressed into the block and 2 screws holding it in. you have to totaly remove the timing cover and chain to get this shaft out. might as well change the timing gear the as well. seems to me like over kill. i am going to check the price of a new timing set and it is to much i am putting in new seals and putting it back together1994 Trans Am GT
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
Ram Air hood and airbox
headers
exhaust
lowered 2"
underdrive pully
sloted rotors
electric water pump
air foil
denso plugs
taylor wires
tinted windows
eagle rims
2000 watt stereo
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Originally posted by rufrider76file://C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\Owner\Desktop\TRANS% 20AM\CSI%20Water%20Pump%20Installation.htm. here are the answers to my questions if any one wants. i was not getting what i needed so i kept looking. seems like you do not have to remove the shaft. there is a bearing pressed into the block and 2 screws holding it in. you have to totaly remove the timing cover and chain to get this shaft out. might as well change the timing gear the as well. seems to me like over kill. i am going to check the price of a new timing set and it is to much i am putting in new seals and putting it back together
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Rufrider, I was doing the cam at the same time as the water pump, so I had the intake off. I'm not sure what you're supposed to do if you just want to do the pump because I don't think it's a good idea to leave the shaft in there. The reason is that there is only one bearing and on the other end is the seal to keep it from wobbling. Then you have the gears meshing somewhere in between. There could be inconsistent gear engagement and grinding if that shaft starts moving around with no water pump bearing to support the other end.
On the other hand, I think some guys have just left the shaft & gears in there and maybe you can check on a few forums to see a consensus whether or not there is long term damage from leaving it in. If the seal is good & stiff, maybe it will just sit there & turn, but I looked at it and decided the shaft had to come out. Obviously, this presents a problem for the guy who just wants to do a pump upgrade and not open up the engine.
The other thing, is that you can use a much cheaper timing set because you don't need the fancy water pump gears that only the LT1/LT4 uses.
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okay i decide to remove the timing cover and replace the chain. waht timing chain set up can use now. any for a small block?. i have stripped my pulled trying to remove the snout of the dampner. any tricks to this?1994 Trans Am GT
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
Ram Air hood and airbox
headers
exhaust
lowered 2"
underdrive pully
sloted rotors
electric water pump
air foil
denso plugs
taylor wires
tinted windows
eagle rims
2000 watt stereo
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i guess the auto zone special wasot a good puller. i strripped the cente bolt on the puller1994 Trans Am GT
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
Ram Air hood and airbox
headers
exhaust
lowered 2"
underdrive pully
sloted rotors
electric water pump
air foil
denso plugs
taylor wires
tinted windows
eagle rims
2000 watt stereo
Comment
-
When pulling the 3 pronged hub off the crank, you might have to put something in the bottom of the threaded hole to push against because the hole in the back of the hub is the same diameter as the threaded hole in the crank. If you don't take this precaution, you might be pushing against the hub itself, and not the crank. In that case, you will break something if you try hard enough.
I think that I got a piece of 5/8 fine threaded, hardened rod to use witht he puller. And I also used another piece of the rod along with some nuts & washers to act as an installer to get the hub back on there.
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