i just got the car back together and it will not start. it sounds normal just will not fire. i was looking around and notice that the wires going to the opti on the drivers side of the car clicked three times when i put the wire on. on the passenger side they did not even once. seems like they are just stuck pon there by the suction of the boot. i can not push them any further on but i am getting a spark plug boot pliers today. i think i may be able to grab them and pull them on from further up the boot. if this is the case then the car would not start right?
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car will not sart after opti replacment
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If some of the plug wires are connected, those cylinders should fire. Did you verify that the harnees connector at the Opti is firmly in place, no bent pins? Do you have a scanner to check for DTC codes 16 and 36? Were you EXTREMELY CAREFUL to properly align the missing tooth on the Opti drive shaft spline with the mating openings in the Opti and the gear? I have seen way too many people who swore they aligned it correctly, only to find after checking that it was not inserted correctly.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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the opti went right on and slid all the way agianst the block1994 Trans Am GT
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
Ram Air hood and airbox
headers
exhaust
lowered 2"
underdrive pully
sloted rotors
electric water pump
air foil
denso plugs
taylor wires
tinted windows
eagle rims
2000 watt stereo
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here is a proceedure to troubleshoot the ignition system........
Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.
Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.
Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.
Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.
Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.
If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.
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Originally posted by rufrider76oh and i have a 94 it will only go on one way
I'm reasonably familiar with the 94Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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