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car will not sart after opti replacment

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  • car will not sart after opti replacment

    i just got the car back together and it will not start. it sounds normal just will not fire. i was looking around and notice that the wires going to the opti on the drivers side of the car clicked three times when i put the wire on. on the passenger side they did not even once. seems like they are just stuck pon there by the suction of the boot. i can not push them any further on but i am getting a spark plug boot pliers today. i think i may be able to grab them and pull them on from further up the boot. if this is the case then the car would not start right?
    1994 Trans Am GT
    http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
    Ram Air hood and airbox
    headers
    exhaust
    lowered 2"
    underdrive pully
    sloted rotors
    electric water pump
    air foil
    denso plugs
    taylor wires
    tinted windows
    eagle rims
    2000 watt stereo

  • #2
    If some of the plug wires are connected, those cylinders should fire. Did you verify that the harnees connector at the Opti is firmly in place, no bent pins? Do you have a scanner to check for DTC codes 16 and 36? Were you EXTREMELY CAREFUL to properly align the missing tooth on the Opti drive shaft spline with the mating openings in the Opti and the gear? I have seen way too many people who swore they aligned it correctly, only to find after checking that it was not inserted correctly.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment


    • #3
      the opti went right on and slid all the way agianst the block
      1994 Trans Am GT
      http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
      Ram Air hood and airbox
      headers
      exhaust
      lowered 2"
      underdrive pully
      sloted rotors
      electric water pump
      air foil
      denso plugs
      taylor wires
      tinted windows
      eagle rims
      2000 watt stereo

      Comment


      • #4
        oh and i have a 94 it will only go on one way
        1994 Trans Am GT
        http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/208684/1
        Ram Air hood and airbox
        headers
        exhaust
        lowered 2"
        underdrive pully
        sloted rotors
        electric water pump
        air foil
        denso plugs
        taylor wires
        tinted windows
        eagle rims
        2000 watt stereo

        Comment


        • #5
          here is a proceedure to troubleshoot the ignition system........

          Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
          check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
          Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
          spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
          indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
          If no spark exists, go to step 2.

          Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
          while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
          is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

          Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
          a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
          12v. If power go to b.
          b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
          primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
          very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
          c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
          terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
          not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

          Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
          key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
          side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
          If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
          module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
          circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
          scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
          cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
          4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
          connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
          battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
          of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
          If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
          the test light is on, go to step 5.

          Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
          frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
          connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
          you will use is located on the passenger side of the
          engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
          probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
          assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
          no flashes, replace the ignition module.

          If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
          start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
          faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
          =moderate $$$.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by rufrider76
            oh and i have a 94 it will only go on one way
            That's what everyone thinks. I have made the suggestion that is was installed incorrectly in at least 10 cases where it turned out to be the correct diagnosis. It is entirely possible to misalign it.

            I'm reasonably familiar with the 94
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment

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