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  • thermostate question

    Will a car run cooler without a theromstat?

    Lee

  • #2
    Originally posted by qpt
    Will a car run cooler without a theromstat?

    Lee
    yes, but in the old days..we got away with it all time no prob... many of us ran with one. but that was before computer controlled cars. i dont recall anyone running thermostatless with pcms'.

    The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

    2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

    Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
    Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
    sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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    • #3
      If you take the thermostat out in a fuel injected car, it may not warm up enough to go into closed loop mode. Performance and efficiency will suffer.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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      • #4
        A problem you may run into with no thermostat is it my over heat the car, yes I know it sounds weird but, If the water in the radiator does not stay in long enough it gets recycled into the engine hot. Alot of gm cars require the themostat to at least slow down the water flow enough to cool. As any of us can see the thermostat hole is half the size of the actual opening it sits in. This can especialy be a problem with High flow water pumps.

        Eric W.

        89 Firebird Formula WS6
        Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
        6.2L/382.97 ci
        Custom PROM Dyno tuned
        WCT-5 speed
        BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
        Boss MS 18" Rims
        Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
        Custom Dual exhaust
        1LE upgrade
        Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
        In a constant state of upgrade!

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        • #5
          what about drilling holes in the thermostat?
          2001 Black WS6 6-spd, 47k. stock...I think.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by stingant0
            what about drilling holes in the thermostat?
            What problem are you experiencing that prompts these questions? If you ask your question differently, you may get better answers. Why would you want to remove or drill holes in you t-stat?
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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            • #7
              I had a friend that drilled holes into his thermostat (he had a 89 Shelby Daytona). He said it ran cooler. Just wondering if it would help. I don't experience any overheating problems. I always kick the A/C on in traffic.
              2001 Black WS6 6-spd, 47k. stock...I think.

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              • #8
                I have been told by a couple of motor heads here in town that If you drill two 3/32 holes in the themostats outer ring that it will prevent air bubbles from collecting in the engine. apperently the hot spots in the engine can create a kind of vapor barrier between the water and the block, there by reducing effectiveness of the water coolant. By putting the holes in the thermostat it will asure that there is always a bit of flow in the engine to prevent this. Or you could just buy some water wet, reduces temps by 10-20 deg C.

                Eric W.

                89 Firebird Formula WS6
                Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
                6.2L/382.97 ci
                Custom PROM Dyno tuned
                WCT-5 speed
                BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
                Boss MS 18" Rims
                Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
                Custom Dual exhaust
                1LE upgrade
                Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
                In a constant state of upgrade!

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you have a healthy cooling system, you have properly filled and vented the system, and your t'stat is the correct one for the reverse cooled application, you do NOT need holes, omitted t'stats, restrictors, etc. Just use the correct 'stat, the way it was designed. The LT1 'stat incoprorates some unique features, that are essential to the proper operation of the cooling system. There's a complete "cross-over tube" system to eliminate air and vapor bubbles from the heads. I push 800HP out of a system that is not that far from stock... stock water pump, HPP 160deg 'stat and a Griffen radiator, and it runs 195deg (what we foiund to provide the best HP) 24/7.

                  Do not believe urban legends about water moving through the radiator too fast to cool, and do not use ancient gear-head tricks that could backfire on a reverse-cooled system like the LT1.
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Injuneer
                    Do not believe urban legends about water moving through the radiator too fast to cool,
                    This was actually a question on the last ASE (engine repair) certification exam I took....
                    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                    • #11
                      The correct answer is: not by itself. A thermostat controls the temperature that the plunger opens, allowing water to circulate. Not only that, the LT-1 thermostat is a dual stage. The fan turn on and off points are what regulate the temperature above the thermostat opening point. If your fans don't kick on sooner than stock, than don't expect the temperatures to be any lower. The exception is when moving. At adequate road speeds, the fans don't come into play and the car will run cooler. As soon as you stop, expect the temps to rise. The correct solution is to change the thermostat and use either a lower temp fan switch or a reprogram of the PCM to change coolant fan tuen on and off points. This can be done with either a custom program or a handheld tuner like the Hypertech HPPIII.

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