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**Injuneer** · 07-17-2003, 01:46 PM

Re: Need Some Opinions.......Kinda Long

Originally posted by Jason97T/A
Hey guys, I've been messing around with my car lately.....Today I took out the MAF screen,

Not a good mod. Throws off the calibration of the meter, and gains no real flow. Some people find they end up with a rough idle.... and lose a couple MPG. Leave the MAF sensor alone. It is fine in its stock form.

and I'm going to be doing the free ram air mod and buying a K&N filter. It's a 97 T/A.

There is no subsitute for a cold air intake (CAI) package. Probably the best mod for a stock engine. Look at the ones from SLP, GMPP, Moroso, Callaway, K&N FIPK, etc. you will be lucky to get 1/2 of the potential improvement from the free ram air mod and K&N

[/b] The first one is number B005001. It is the one about the call for rubber isolaters at the bottom of springs to act as a cushion and stop squeeks.[/b]

Get a short length of rubber hose, of a diameter that will fit over the spring coil. Jack the rear of the car, both sides. Use jackstands under the subframes. Put a floor jack under the rear axle and raise it until the tension is off the shocks. Loosen the bolts that hold the shocks to the axle housing, and drop the axle with the floor jack. The springs will literally fall out. Slip the hose over the bottom coil of the spring. Reverse procedure to install. Cost approx. $2.

The second one is number 474201A. This one is about the metal squeeling noise from the rear on high speed turns. This my car does also...coming from the drivers side rear I believe. It calls for a shim of some sort? I don't really get it. Would a GM dealer know how to fix it?

I'll let someone else answer that one.

The third one is number 476109. It's the screeching sound from the engine on hard shifts. It is throwing the belt and causing it to screech. What would it take to replace the belt tensioner with an improved one? Should I replace the A/C Pulley and clutch and the belt too? When my a/c clutch ingages is causes a constant clicking sound. Kinda loud. And the air isnt that cold. How much would each of these bulletins run me at the GM dealership. Are these easy jobs? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Jason

It isn't "throwing" the belt, it is just slipping. The belt may have stretched. You can check and see if the tensioner pulley is in the correct operating in the correct position. There is a scale and pointer on the pulley housing that shows if it is within spec. I would replace the belt first with the GoodYear GatorBack replacement.

**Jeff_in_Atl** · 07-17-2003, 02:25 PM

I have a comment about using a hose for the spring. I tried a heater hose and it lasted about a week. The material isn't strong enough. I havn't done it yet but an oil line hose might last a lot alonger. I know you won't want to hear this but Mustangs come with them. They are used on the bottom of the front spring. They are made for this application and they aren't that expensive. One day I will do mine. http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/asp...n&CatKey=74-01

If you make one, You have to cut the hose about 3/4 of the way through about every inch for the entire length to get it to go on the coil. It won't bend that tight if you don't. The cuts will go to the outside.

**Joe 1320** · 07-17-2003, 02:27 PM

Re: Need Some Opinions.......Kinda Long

Originally posted by Jason97T/A
Today I took out the MAF screen, and I'm going to be doing the free ram air mod and buying a K&N filter.

The free ram air is supposed to be for LS1s....As far as the MAF, Fred is right on. Some cars do show small gains, others it screws up the calibration and causes drivability problems. I was fortunate in that my ported MAF gave me a little more upper RPM performance. Most likely the ported MAF created a leaner mixture. The factory unmolested MAF flows plenty for stock cars, so it wasn't a function of airflow. LT1s are programmed to be rich at WOT. In my case, I was lucky.

Originally posted by Jason97T/A
number B005001. It is the one about the call for rubber isolaters at the bottom of springs to act as a cushion and stop squeeks. jobs? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Jason

I solved mine differently than Fred. I used a small water spray bottle, mixed in powdered graphite with rubbing alcohol. Spray the spring seats liberally. The alcohol will evaporate, leaving the graphite to do it's job. No squeeks since '97.

number 476109. It's the screeching sound from the engine on hard shifts. It is throwing the belt and causing it to screech.

I was never able to solve this with the factory pulley. I ended up using a march underdrive pulley set. It cured the belt noise on WOT shifts.

**Jason97T/A** · 07-17-2003, 04:21 PM

Re: Re: Need Some Opinions.......Kinda Long

Originally posted by Joe 1320

I solved mine differently than Fred. I used a small water spray bottle, mixed in powdered graphite with rubbing alcohol. Spray the spring seats liberally. The alcohol will evaporate, leaving the graphite to do it's job. No squeeks since '97.

Where did you get the powdered graphite? And how much of each mixture did you use?
By the way, I already took the screen out of the MAF, so it's kinda too late. Maybe I'll look into porting it. I saw a do it yourself guide. Also I saved the screen, but I hate to put it back in there seeing its not in the greatest shape.
I don't really want to spend a whole lot of money on a K&N system or a Underdrive pulley set. You don't think a new belt would solve the problem?
Thanks

**Jason97T/A** · 07-17-2003, 05:42 PM

By the way, I took it out for a test drive and it seems to be alright. No bad idle, and maybe even noticed a lil more power in the high rpm range. If I do have problems I could always get the screen back in there. It would just have some rough edges but it would stay in tact.

**Joe 1320** · 07-17-2003, 05:53 PM

Re: Re: Re: Need Some Opinions.......Kinda Long

Originally posted by Jason97T/A
Where did you get the powdered graphite? And how much of each mixture did you use?
By the way, I already took the screen out of the MAF, so it's kinda too late. Maybe I'll look into porting it. I saw a do it yourself guide. Also I saved the screen, but I hate to put it back in there seeing its not in the greatest shape.
I don't really want to spend a whole lot of money on a K&N system or a Underdrive pulley set. You don't think a new belt would solve the problem?
Thanks

Powdered graphite can be found at a hardware store. I got mine at a basic small town store. As far as the mix, I wasn't very controlled in the experiment, I just filled up the bottle about 3/4 will alcohol and dumped the tube of graphite in there. I shook it up well and sprayed away.

As far as the belt goes, you might try pulling off the belt and taking a wire brush to the pulley grooves of all the accessories including the crank pulley. There just might be road film or crud that gas gotten into the pulley crevices and is causing the slip. For some, that cures the problem. That at least is a no cost attempt. If that doesn't work, try a new belt. Some have had luck with a goodyear belt.

**Jason97T/A** · 07-17-2003, 06:55 PM

How big of job is it to get the belt off of the pulleys. Could you explain the process and tools I would need to do it? Im not the biggest do it yourself guy. Thanks
Jason

**Injuneer** · 07-17-2003, 11:25 PM

Go under the front of the engine and find the tensioner pulley - it is shown in the belt diagram on the label on the top of the radiator cover. Put a socket and ratchet on the bolt in the center of the tensioner.... I think it is 13mm. Turn the socket clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt. Have someone remove the old belt, and put on a new one while the tension is relieved. When the new belt it on, release the ratchet and allow the tensioner to tension the belt. Time - approx 5 minutes. Degree of difficulty on a scale of 1 (easy) to 10 (hard) = 1.

Do yourself a favor... spend less than $20 for a Chiltons service manual for the 93-97 F-Body. It will show you pictures, and explain all the steps for basic service items. You can generally get the parts for about 1/2 of what the dealer would charge you, and anything you can do yourself will net you a $75-85/hour savings on dealer labor.

**Jason97T/A** · 07-17-2003, 11:53 PM

Originally posted by Injuneer
Do yourself a favor... spend less than $20 for a Chiltons service manual for the 93-97 F-Body. It will show you pictures, and explain all the steps for basic service items. You can generally get the parts for about 1/2 of what the dealer would charge you, and anything you can do yourself will net you a $75-85/hour savings on dealer labor.

Where can I get the Chiltons Service Manual for the F-Body. And where is a good place to order the Goodyear Belt? Summit Has one I believe and I'm thinkin bout gettin the underdrive pulley for the crank. Or should I get the Alternator also? What do you think? How hard is it to get the pulley off and put the new one on? Thanks
Jason

**Joe 1320** · 07-18-2003, 07:16 AM

Chilton and/or Haynes manuals are available at most auto parts stores. If you go for underdrive pulleys, get the alternator pully as well. These cars have been known to have some charging issues at idle with just the crank pulley. The install of the pulleys can be either easy or a pain..... the stock crank damper/pulley is removed and the march pully is sandwiched between the stock damper and the hub. The alternator pully can be tricky as you must keep the alternator from spinning while you unbolt the stock pulley and swap it. Total time should be 45 minutes. The belts are available at most local parts stores.

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Need Some Opinions.......Kinda Long

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