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  • Dead LS1 update.

    morning guys'
    I have finally gotten word on my car. The local dealer has finally gotten around to diagnosing my bird. Turns out that I threw a rod. Not what I wanted to hear. After producing my maintenance records, GM has authorized warranty on it. My motor will arrive in town on Wedensday. What a helpless feeling not knowing what went wrong and how much it was going to cost me. I am cruising around in this Sunfire now, what a joke!!!!

    Everyone I tell has one thing to say, awesome, You are getting a brand new engine!! I am having trouble looking at it that way. I ask myself, why did it happen, and how much will it cost me next time? Any thoughts?

    On a side note, for this week, I am writing from a Diamond mine in the high arctic. I flew in this morning, quite an impressive operation. It is locatated on an island four hundred kilometres form Yellowknife. That is the nearest settlement. No f-bodies around here!!

    Jamie

  • #2
    Drive Train warranty?

    I have a question on this whole thing... Ok, you have a 24,000 mile warranty on the LS1 motor (if I remember correctly.. doesn't really matter)

    Now this new motor has Zero miles on it.. Lets say your odometer reads past your warranty, but th new motor still has less miles, and you blow that one out..

    What milage do they go by for the engine? Vehicle miles, or motor miles? It is is vehicle miles, you can easily get screwed if this does happen again..

    Does my question make sense? I hope so
    Austin Schroeger
    Looking to Buy 1994-97 F-Body

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    • #3
      Chrysler corp just put a trans in my 99 RAM with 58k on it and the warranty is three yrs and 36k from the time it left the dealer (at least thats what they told me) maybe its the same with GM
      1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
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      • #4
        Originally posted by BadWS6
        Chrysler corp just put a trans in my 99 RAM with 58k on it and the warranty is three yrs and 36k from the time it left the dealer (at least thats what they told me) maybe its the same with GM
        "What they tell you"... Isn't that the truth... Wouldn't it be nice if they could have something in writing..
        Austin Schroeger
        Looking to Buy 1994-97 F-Body

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        • #5
          That is one of my main concerns at this point. I will get the verdict in writing, I can assue you of that.

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          • #6
            Just make sure to break in the motor before you gun it hard or go on a long highway trip.
            2006 Saturn Ion Redline
            2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder

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            • #7
              Which reminds me, any advice on proper break-in?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ryan34
                Just make sure to break in the motor before you gun it hard or go on a long highway trip.
                You know, I've heard that all my life but I was listening to Austin Coil (I think is how you spell his name)(engine builder for John Force) and someone asked him how to break in an engine. He said if an engine is done right, there is no break in period. He said the only reason they pre run their engines is to look for leeks and bolts falling out. He said if an engine has a good hone pattern in the cylinder bore, it doesn't matter for street or strip. Don't shoot the messenger. I'm just repeating what he said.
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                  You know, I've heard that all my life but I was listening to Austin Coil (I think is how you spell his name)(engine builder for John Force) and someone asked him how to break in an engine. He said if an engine is done right, there is no break in period. He said the only reason they pre run their engines is to look for leeks and bolts falling out. He said if an engine has a good hone pattern in the cylinder bore, it doesn't matter for street or strip. Don't shoot the messenger. I'm just repeating what he said.
                  I've been a student of that theory for years. The only thing that I do is change the oil several times in the first 500 miles. An entire new car is a different thing, which is where the break in period is suggested for things like the clutch, lockup converter, etc.

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                  • #10
                    In the the older non-roller motors, a break in period was a good idea because of the nature of the friction between the camshaft lobe and the lifter.

                    With our roller cam setups it is not neccesary. I would also change the oil about 3 times within the first 750-1000 miles.

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                    • #11
                      As for your ...."why did it happen?' ........

                      The LS1 has a small history of rod bolt failure. Most guys that are planning on revving them high, replace the rob bolts with ARP bolts.

                      Gordon

                      Gordon Arnold - '00 WS6 T/A - Sold

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                      • #12
                        [QUOTE=fastTA]In the the older non-roller motors, a break in period was a good idea because of the nature of the friction between the camshaft lobe and the lifter.

                        [QUOTE]

                        Evidently GM didn't think so as engines are dropped into cars and put on the rollers at full throttle before any so called break in period to verify engine performance. If it's going to fail, they want it to fail immediatly.

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                        • #13
                          Would a highway trip be out of the question guys? I would like to get the heck outta dodge before snow flies around here.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Joe 1320
                            Evidently GM didn't think so as engines are dropped into cars and put on the rollers at full throttle before any so called break in period to verify engine performance. If it's going to fail, they want it to fail immediatly.
                            If it is not GM, it is the dealership. I had the misfortune of working sales-staff for a Ford dealership for a few months when I was between jobs. Oh my, it is horrible what some of those people do to brand new cars. I knew several guys who took out brand new Cobras and ran them incredibly hard. I wasn't the most popular there because I kept asking about the poor future owner who buys this car new. It is so ridiculous!!! Although, I am happy that I had the experience. I learned a lot about how those places handle cars...it is not pretty. If/when I buy my new Vette. I want it delivered with the wrap still on and untouched. I don't want any of those jerks messing with it. If you ask me, the problems with this engine started at the dealership...but I am pretty cynical.
                            '77 K5 rock-crawler project
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