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  • #1

    Engine problems after stalling in puddle

    On the way to my house yesterday after a torrential downpoor, my 94 3.4L Camaro got stuck in a puddle. The water was below door level but apparently was high enough to be sucked into the air intake. The car stalled and me and a few buddies were able to push it the last block to my house. At first we were hopign it would dry out and be driveable the next day. It would turn over but wouldnt start. After a few attempts at it we finally did start the engine but it has an awful knock. We shut the engine down and checked the oil. It was milky so we drained and replaced it and then started it back up again. It still had the knock. The engine still seems to be responsive and peppy but it knocks. We let it run for a little while with steam coming out the exhaust pipes, trying to burn off whatever water might still be in it. Were not sure what do from here and really need some help. Any reccomendations would be highly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance!
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  • #2
    Sounds like you might have done some engine damage. If you have insurance it should cover it. I know mine will.....Good Luck

    96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Louer Adun
      On the way to my house yesterday after a torrential downpoor, my 94 3.4L Camaro got stuck in a puddle. The water was below door level but apparently was high enough to be sucked into the air intake. The car stalled and me and a few buddies were able to push it the last block to my house. At first we were hopign it would dry out and be driveable the next day. It would turn over but wouldnt start. After a few attempts at it we finally did start the engine but it has an awful knock. We shut the engine down and checked the oil. It was milky so we drained and replaced it and then started it back up again. It still had the knock. The engine still seems to be responsive and peppy but it knocks. We let it run for a little while with steam coming out the exhaust pipes, trying to burn off whatever water might still be in it. Were not sure what do from here and really need some help. Any reccomendations would be highly appreciated.
      Thanks in advance!
      Are all six cylinders firing? If so, its kinda weird that it would have spun a bearing. Thats not what I would have expected......unless you ran it for a while with the water in the crankcase. Usually, if you hydrolock an engine under heavy demand, you will bend or break connecting rods - maybe one bent in such a way that it is knocking into something internal. Either way, its probably gotta come apart.
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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      • #4
        All six have spark, but it seems as if one piston isnt firing. After changing the oil twice i rode it down the street and back to see if it seemed sluggish and it felt as if i was only running on 5 cylinders. It does seem taht whatever the problem is im going to have to be doing some engine work. Do you guys think it would be worth it as a do it yourself project or should i have this professionally done? Are there any special tools i would absolutely have to have to make this project a success.
        Once again thanks for the feedback.

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        • #5
          Did you get all the water out of that cylinder?
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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          • #6
            Yes I got all the water out via the spark plug holes so we are pretty sure that an engine rebuild is in the making. Im not sure what would be the most economical... I can rebuild this engine with 106k miles on it or i could get a used engine. The price i was quoted on a factory remanufactured engine was rediculous so that is out of the question.
            If i elect to rebuild this one would it be better to have a mechanic do this or should i do it. I do have the time to invest in it but im not sure about tools.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Louer Adun
              Yes I got all the water out via the spark plug holes so we are pretty sure that an engine rebuild is in the making. Im not sure what would be the most economical... I can rebuild this engine with 106k miles on it or i could get a used engine. The price i was quoted on a factory remanufactured engine was rediculous so that is out of the question.
              If i elect to rebuild this one would it be better to have a mechanic do this or should i do it. I do have the time to invest in it but im not sure about tools.
              You are better off getting a used one. I got a 2.8 for a 88 grand prix with about 50K on it for $500. It ran strong as long as I owned the car.

              I installed it myself in a weekend. Problem solved.
              Tracy
              2002 C5 M6 Convertible
              1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
              Current Mods:
              SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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              • #8
                If you're gonna have to swap or rebuild I wonder if the 3.8 would drop in easily? It'd be a good deal more power than the 3.4. Just a thought...

                96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-

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                • #9
                  i had the exact same thing happen to my Thunderbird....i stalled in a puddle of water that was about 8" deep, and unfortunately, i had no choice but to try to run it to get out of the road. i was by myself, there was still a torrential downpour going on, it was raining so hard that even with my hazard lights flashing, i nearly got hit by about 3 - 4 people....if i had stayed there, i would have gotten nailed for sure.

                  anyway, it bent 3 of my connecting rods and my engine had that same knocking/tapping sound. my advice is if you have full coverage, let insurance take care of it...if not, find a cheap used engine and swap out the whole thing. unless you have the time/tools/willingness to do it yourself, just have a reputable shop do it all for you....it's more of a pain in the ace than it's worth to do it yourself if it's your daily driver.


                  Red '02 Z28 M6 - purchased 6/24/04 with 11,706 miles
                  CAGS Eliminator

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