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Joe1320: The IAT trick needs a 4.7 or 47 Ohm resistor?..thanks!
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Hey Doc
Not Joe here but this is his answer from the past.
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthre...=intake+sensor97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)
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Don't be surprised if it does nothing for you, though.Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com
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Dissenting opinions say that this mod does nothing on the dyno. The problem is that people usually test WOT and not part throttle. This mod does not enhance WOT, it is a part throttle mod that gives a snappier throttle tip in with increased timing at part throttle. Again, it does nothing for wide open throttle HP and torque. you may even get a slight boost in around town drivability. you will need to run premium fuel as a minimum. If not, expect a little part throttle knock. Also be sure to remove the resistor and re-install the sensor in the winter, this is a hot temp summer mod. This is the same thing as SLP's timing tricker, albiet far less dough and does the same thing.
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The alternative is to simply move the IAT sensor away from the heat soak, which is the primary cause of the problem.
Its possible to see the IAT sensor, in the stock location, indicating temps of 145degF, when actual air temps are under 90degF. Moving the sensor to the "cold" end of a CAI will eliminate the problem with heat soak, and reduce the possibility of the PCM thinking it needs to pull timing because of high inlet air temps. That way, you still have the built-in protection of a little less timing when inlet air temps are actually elevated, and could contribute to detonation. Timing offsets for high inlet air temps and high coolant temps are an important part of the engine protection provided by the tuning in my aftermarket engine management system.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Thanks a lot Joe and Fred. As you have told, the ambient temp is 38°C and the IAT shows 55-57°C or even more if the car is at red light. The past weekend I traveled 100 miles to another city between the 2-3 PM when the ambient temp was almost 40°C; when I arrived to the first town red light and applied the brake almost to stop the car stumbles....IAC dirty?, MAF tiny sensors dirty? (K&N filter installed in the car) or IAT with "heat soak"?. The car accelerated well and no DTC showed (The scanner always ride with me in long trips). The IAC counts, the MAF flow rates were under specs. After that I ruled out a vacuum leak or any source of no metering air entering to the engine. The stumble always appear in that condition: long trip plus hot ambient temps. So, the IAT is my first culprit. I will try the Joe's trick, in the meantime i will get a harness to relocate the IAT sensor. Do you know where to purchase the harness guys?
Any other comment will be welcomed
Regards
Doc97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$
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Originally posted by dochidalgoWhy Rob?
Regards
DocRob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com
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fastTa
I would have to agree with Fred on this one. (I know, I can hear some jaws dropping! )
I would just relocate the IAT sensor to a spot that would only see fresh cool air. Thunder Racing sells an extension harness for the IAT sensor. I don't think it is on the website but I talked to Chris at TR a while back and they have them for sale.
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