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Ignition Control Module ?'s

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  • Ignition Control Module ?'s

    I've had my car looked over by a friend that is a mechanic I have a lot of issues with my car unfortunately. The manifold was warped so badly that the injector wasn't even working. I also have a new waterpump and the opti is good surprisingly. The car is running MUCH better than it ever has it's like a totally different car...feels 100x more powerful than ever. This would explain why my car ran a 14.9 in the quarter last year.

    Now here's still the issue. He says that the car gets really hot and it still bogs on acceleration only after the car has hit 210 degrees...if it's cool the car is running flawlessly. He says that I need a new fan motor which I am going to pick up later today. He also says that my ignition control module is acting flakey....the car starts ok though.

    Now here's my question. When an ignition control module starts going bad, will it affect accleration or will it just not start? Could this possibly be heating up and causing the bogging? Anybody have an ignition control module start going bad?
    1994 Formula
    3.23's
    Moroso Cold Air Intake
    G2 High Flow MAF
    Flowmaster Exhaust w/ High-Flo Cat
    1LE Intake Elbow
    Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors
    NGK TR55's, Accel High Performance Coil, Accel Extreme Wires

  • #2
    The coil driver module which is what I believe he is talking about, is located just above the coil and is mounted on the front of the driver's side head. Both the coil and the driver module are mounted on the same bracket and are subject to heat soak. Usually this manifests itself under high heat and higher rpms. It can appear to work fine under daily driving but show symptoms at WOT or higher rpms. Sometimes the harness pins can get out of alignment causing problems as well. Check the harness connections to make sure all the pins make good contact. Replacing the module is simple and relatively inexpensive, just be sure to use the supplied dielectric grease to coat the backside of the module.

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    • #3
      Hey, Thanks for the reply! Most helpful! That's exactly when it is starting to bog, under WOT. It acts pretty normal otherwise.

      http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg

      This is the right module right?
      1994 Formula
      3.23's
      Moroso Cold Air Intake
      G2 High Flow MAF
      Flowmaster Exhaust w/ High-Flo Cat
      1LE Intake Elbow
      Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors
      NGK TR55's, Accel High Performance Coil, Accel Extreme Wires

      Comment


      • #4
        Shoebox has a mod on his website to move the ICM off the head to minimize the heat soak.

        http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the info...I've picked up the parts gonna install 'em this weekend...will post an update
          1994 Formula
          3.23's
          Moroso Cold Air Intake
          G2 High Flow MAF
          Flowmaster Exhaust w/ High-Flo Cat
          1LE Intake Elbow
          Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors
          NGK TR55's, Accel High Performance Coil, Accel Extreme Wires

          Comment

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