Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cleaning up porus aluminum

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cleaning up porus aluminum

    I'd like to somehow bring back the luster of some porus aluminum parts under the hood. Namely the intake manifold, alternator and alt bracket.

    Is there a chemical that I can put on the porus aluminum that will act like an acid and eat it clean? I'd like it to look new again with that luster and clean appearance. It currently looks kinda dull.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

  • #2
    Ive used Industrial grade Spoke Cleaner before (acid), and it worked great. You just kinda have to be carefull that it doesnt dry, because it can leave drip stains on your stuff. A pressure washer will certainly help in getting it all to look evenly clean.
    1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

    Comment


    • #3
      Of course a "pressure washer" would also run the risk of damaging sensors, the PCM, electrical connectors and the infamous Optispark. I personally would avoid using a pressure washer under the hood.

      First clean the grease and surface dirt off using a solvent type cleaner on a rag. Then try aluminum polish. Applying it with a felt "bob" on a a rotary tool will help speed the process.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4
        Eagle one etching mag wheel cleaner. The stuff works great, but don't leave it on too long.

        Comment


        • #5
          small dremmel.

          The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

          2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

          Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
          Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
          sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

          Comment


          • #6
            I used a product called "Wenol". It was really good at polishing my WS6 wheels so I though I would give it a try on my stock LT1 intake manifold, fuel rails, and alternator. It made my intake manifold look better than new!

            And yes a dremmel would definitely make things easier.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by fastTA
              I used a product called "Wenol". It was really good at polishing my WS6 wheels so I though I would give it a try on my stock LT1 intake manifold, fuel rails, and alternator. It made my intake manifold look better than new!

              And yes a dremmel would definitely make things easier.
              Wenol is some of the best metal polish that money can buy.
              Active Duty USAF KC-10 Boom

              93 F-Body Service Manual DTC and Driveability Charts

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Fastbird93
                Wenol is some of the best metal polish that money can buy.
                The aluminum on the items I need to clean is not smooth, it is very rough and porous. I'm worried that if I use a polishing compound on it that the compound will get stuck in all the little ruts and look worse than it already does.

                Feedback?
                I could be wrong.. tell me if I am.
                Tracy
                2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                Current Mods:
                SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm tellin' ya.........

                  Eagle one etching wheel cleaner. Use it on the rough cast aluminum, use the polishes for the fuel rails. I've used the stuff on cast aluminum for years. I did my intake when it was off, I've done it on others' cars with the intake in place and the result was stellar. No pressure washing needed, just simple rinse off. Just keep the water off the opti.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Joe 1320
                    I'm tellin' ya.........

                    Eagle one etching wheel cleaner. Use it on the rough cast aluminum, use the polishes for the fuel rails. I've used the stuff on cast aluminum for years. I did my intake when it was off, I've done it on others' cars with the intake in place and the result was stellar. No pressure washing needed, just simple rinse off. Just keep the water off the opti.

                    Thanks Joe. That is the explanation and info I was looking for. I'll give it a shot.
                    Tracy
                    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                    Current Mods:
                    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The alternator bracket is fairly smooth after you get the dirt off. It will respond to polish. The alternator case seems to have been blasted or something... surfaces like that can be cleaned, and it you want to really get into a bit of work, can be polished with sandpaper and polishing compunds.

                      The fuel rails as noted above simply need some aluminum polish on a soft rag. I've had good luck with the Mother's Amazing Billet Polish. The top of the intake has fine lines in it, but will respond to aluminum polish. I don't know about the surfaces of the LT1 intake, I know my old one was fairly rough.

                      The stock throttle body can be polished. The Holley aftermarket responds extremely well:





                      If you want to get the rough surfaces smoothed, you can sand sttarting with 200 grit, go to 400grit, then to 600 grit paper. Then some polishing compound on a Dremel/felt bob. Sears has some polishing compund that seems to work better than jewelers rouge. I did my Baer brake calipers this way:

                      Fred

                      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        At work we cleaned large aluminum parts with some air conditioning coil cleaner. Don't remember the name of it and I don't know how bad it is for the rest of the stuff under the hood. But it really cleaned up the parts real well.
                        97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


                        1and1 Web Hosting

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TraceZ
                          The aluminum on the items I need to clean is not smooth, it is very rough and porous. I'm worried that if I use a polishing compound on it that the compound will get stuck in all the little ruts and look worse than it already does.

                          Feedback?
                          I could be wrong.. tell me if I am.
                          When I applied the Wenol to the rough porous surfaces of my intake manifold, I rubbed it in until it turned black. Then let it sit for a few minutes, and then use a cotton towel to remove the polish. The roughness of the towel will remove all remaining polish and it will shine beter than new.

                          I helped a friend sand and polish some of his brackets and alternator and it wasn't to bad. We used a dremmel and sand paper basically in incremental grits like Fred described.

                          Then once you get a fairly smooth surface you use a substance called Tripoli Compound. It is bacically a metal specific poilishing compound. It works fantastic. Then you follow up with a metal polish and you have a mirror basically.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I used the mag cleaner stuff today on the alternator. It got it really clean, but it still doesnt have that sparkly sheen like new.

                            It looks a ton better, though. I'll try Kevin's wenol idea next and see what that does to it on top of what I've got already.
                            Tracy
                            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                            Current Mods:
                            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              TraceZ, let us know what works, I've been thinking about the same process.
                              Dave M
                              Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X