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  • #1

    Problems with T/A, please help

    Hey guys, I had a buddy of mine with an autotap program hook it up to the computer. Bad news. It is throwin two codes. One for the AIR which is under recall and getting fixed. The other code is for the EGR. I had this before but thought it was fixed???? What could be wrong with it? Also, every time my car gets warmed up and goin, I will be sitting at a stoplight on my way to work, brake on and in drive, and it will stutter a couple times?? Could this have anything to do with it?
    Also, another major problem. The computer is seeing all kinds of knock. We had it in park and I would hit the gas mildly, 2 degrees. If I punch it real quick, up to 9. I have the LT4 knock module. There is no noticeable knock at all. About a year ago the cam was knocking and it was seeing knock, but now it is the same thing with no knock. So obviously it's false knock. What in the heck is the problem here?
    Anything else I can look for on the autotap program that might help me out?
    I need help with this badly!
    thanks, jason
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  • #2
    Re: Problems with T/A, please help

    Originally posted by Jason97T/A
    Hey guys, I had a buddy of mine with an autotap program hook it up to the computer. Bad news. It is throwin two codes. One for the AIR which is under recall and getting fixed. The other code is for the EGR. I had this before but thought it was fixed????


    maybe it was not fixed.






    What could be wrong with it? Also, every time my car gets warmed up and goin, I will be sitting at a stoplight on my way to work, brake on and in drive, and it will stutter a couple times?? Could this have anything to do with it?

    how many miles do you have on it? whats been changed?


    Also, another major problem. The computer is seeing all kinds of knock.

    what do you mean "the computer is Seeing all kinds of knock? pre-det? do you have roller rocks?


    We had it in park and I would hit the gas mildly, 2 degrees. If I punch it real quick, up to 9. I have the LT4 knock module. There is no noticeable knock at all. About a year ago the cam was knocking and it was seeing knock

    the cam was "knocking?"?????


    , but now it is the same thing with no knock. So obviously it's false knock.

    man this is confusing as heck........


    What in the heck is the problem here?
    Anything else I can look for on the autotap program that might help me out?
    I need help with this badly!
    thanks, jason

    hey fred.......

    get in here.......





    The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

    2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

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    • #3
      I had an egr code a while back. One day it would not start. I had it towed in and they said it was from carbon in the line and on the egr valve. The carbon hung the valve open. They cleaned it and it has not returned. I guess it's been about a year now.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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      • #4
        Sorry so confusing Ken.....just all bummed about the problems with the car. One right after another.
        About a year ago my car had a knock in it. I had the engine pretty much redone and they found that the one of the lobes on the cam was being beaten to hell. Which was what was knocking. The engine was picking up all kinds of knock while it was doing that. That was fixed and it quit showing the knock on the computer. The engine is picking up knock right now and retarding the timing. As soon as I hit the gas, it shows knock.
        I have not done anything special to the car. It has the LT4 knock module like I said. No cats and flowmaster cat back.
        I do need to change the belt tensioner and belt as the belt tensioner is causing a clicking sound some times. But the computer can't be seeing that as knock i dont think. I'm going to have the dealership look at the EGR when i take it in for the AIR recall on friday.
        I have 105000 miles on it. The optispark was changed with the rebuild. It is showing no misfire. Everything internal is stock. Im tellin ya, this car has just been one problem right after another. Im trying to get them all taken care of. Well any help greatly appreciated.
        Jason

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        • #5
          EGR helps prevent knock by recirculating unburned gasses. If you are thowing an EGR code and you are experiencing knock at light throttle, it makes sense. Either the EGR is plugged, the solenoid is not functioning or the vacuum line leaks or has slipped off. Simple fix.

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          • #6
            The EGR is probably caused by the lack of cats... reduced back pressure, so the PCM does not see the blip it expects in MAP readings when the EGR system is activated. Might also be carboned up as mentioned in the other post. It is supposed to be closed at idle, so any leakage could cause a rough idle. It generally only operates at part load, cruising conditions, never at WOT, so if you are getting knock retard at anything other than lugging it at low RPM in too high a gear, I wouldn't attribute the knock retard to an EGR problem.

            You might want to check and see if there was also a recall for the EGR on the 96/97's.... somehow I thought there was one, but I could be wrong.

            You mention you are getting knock retard on the scan, yet say "there is no noticable knock at all".... and seem to somehow feel this means it is "false knock". Not the correct conclusion.... you can't hear/feel any actual knock, because the knock sensor hears it before you do, and pulls the timing to eliminate it.

            Have you tried some high octane unleaded fuel to rule out true knock? Has the knock problem persisted for a few tanks of gas, or is it fairly recent?

            Also might want to list the specific mods, if anything other than the "no cats" and flowmaster.

            You mention cam lobe wear. What did they do to fix it? Did they track down the cause of the excessive wear, or did they just replace the cam and possibly leave a faulty lifter or other valve train component that was contributing to the lobe failure? Is it possible the cam problem is recurring?

            The tensioner could contribute to "knock" since the bracket is right on the same corner of the block as the knock sensor.

            If you have an AutoTap log in a format I can open... .csv, .xls, etc. I will take a look at it.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              Fred....
              The EGR code did come up soon after I took the cats off. I figured this was coincidental seeing how I have never heard anything about it happining to anyone else. I will still have the GM dealership try and fix it. I don't remember seeing a EGR on recall when I checked to see if my AIR was under recall so I dont believe there is one.
              I guess I didnt understand the meaning of knock. Thanks for clearing that up.
              Do you think I should get some Octane Boost to throw in the tank on my next fillup? I run Premium, supposedly 93 Octane all the time. This is the first time I've hooked the autotap up to it to check it since the cam was fixed and the problem was gone.
              Mods include....LT4 KM, Flowmaster, No cats, Descreened MAF (The rough idle was there before I did this BTW), I dont really remember doin any other mods. I think that is it. I have had the waterpump, opti, and fuel pump changed. The plugs and wires were changed 20,000 ago. And the computer showed no history of a misfire.
              Also when they put the new cam in it, they changed bearing, put new lifters in, checked the valvetrain which was ok, all new bearings and seals.....it was 3500 dollars worth of a rebuild. Only thing they didnt touch was heads and pistons.
              I am replacing the tensioner when it gets here with a goodyear gatorback belt.
              Next time we hook the autotap up I'll ask him about a log he might be able to get for you.

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