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Broken Exhaust Manifold bolt?

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  • #1

    Broken Exhaust Manifold bolt?

    I thought I was missing the very last bolt on the drivers side. I went and got a bolt at the parts store and the threads wouldn't start. I then got a smaller bolt to see if there is even a hole there. It wasn't there. So that tells me the bolt must have broken off.
    What would fixing that entail? Removing the manifolds and drilling out the bolt? I will not have to pull the engine, will I. What if I dont have enough room to drill it out.
    Thanks for the help guys, I have got to get rid of the terrible cold start exhaust leak noise. But after it warms up (metal expands) it sounds better.
    93 Trans Am; Hooker Cat-back;
    Moroso cia; more to
    come...hopefully!
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Originally posted by Cade93TA
    I thought I was missing the very last bolt on the drivers side. I went and got a bolt at the parts store and the threads wouldn't start. I then got a smaller bolt to see if there is even a hole there. It wasn't there. So that tells me the bolt must have broken off.
    What would fixing that entail? Removing the manifolds and drilling out the bolt? I will not have to pull the engine, will I. What if I dont have enough room to drill it out.
    Thanks for the help guys, I have got to get rid of the terrible cold start exhaust leak noise. But after it warms up (metal expands) it sounds better.
    I would pull the manifold to see it you could fit a right angle drill in there and drill it for an easy-out. If yuo cant get the drill in there, you gotta pull the head
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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    • #3
      I'm going through it right now and I'm sorry to say start tearing her down. Right angle drill will hardly fit at all and its almost impossible to get a hole in there thats even half straight. I pulled my head and tried an easy out and ended up breaking an easy out off in the bolt. Luckily my Pap worked in a machine shop for 30 years and had incredibly hard drill bits that I was able to use to drill it out and then I just retapped it. Its actually not that bad pulling the head off just take your time and may as well throw in a cam roller rockers and some valve springs while your in there.
      1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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      • #4
        I was afraid of that. The good news is I only have to take out the head instead of the engine. Maybe I should get new heads (ported and polished)

        Thanks
        Cade
        93 Trans Am; Hooker Cat-back;
        Moroso cia; more to
        come...hopefully!

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by 94 formula
          Its actually not that bad pulling the head off .
          The major PITA is when you put it back on Trying to torque the bolts to spec while you leaning over the fender and trying to get the torque wrench, and angle gauge under the firewall for the back bolts is not the most fun.

          I started using ARP head bolts (which are not torque-to-yield) and using a straight torque spec. I just tighten them down in the correct pattern in three torque increments and keep the angle gauge in the tool box.

          Oh....and you might as well try using a right angle drill, because you gotta pull the manifold first anyways........try cutting the drill bit down, so theres only a half inch sticking out of the chuck - thats all you need for an easy-out.
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
            The major PITA is when you put it back on Trying to torque the bolts to spec while you leaning over the fender and trying to get the torque wrench, and angle gauge under the firewall for the back bolts is not the most fun.

            I started using ARP head bolts (which are not torque-to-yield) and using a straight torque spec. I just tighten them down in the correct pattern in three torque increments and keep the angle gauge in the tool box.
            Dang... that's exactly what I did.

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            • #7
              Broken exh manifold bolts seem pretty common on these motors. Same thing happened to me. You might want to research which bolt broke, because the one that broke on mine doesn't get used by SLP Shorty Headers. So I was able to install headers (what a great excuse it was for the wife - to drop $$$ on the headers) without removing the broken bolt.

              Good Luck
              Sean
              1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

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