Torquing down rocker arms

[94 formula]

Can someone give me the proper procedure for torquing down rocker arms. I've always thought it was tighten till the pushrod doesn't have play and then 3\4 of a turn more am I right?

[Gary94Formula]

I always would take out all the slack in the push rod, then go another 1/2 turn. The roller rockers in a LT1 compress real easy. Here is what I used when I did mine.

Good luck.. Gary94Formula


After writing this up a couple of different times I finally saved it.

step 1 - You want to get the number 1 cylinder into firing position. With the
arrow on the harmonic balancer in the 12
o clock postion, pistons #1 and #6 are at the top of their travels, but only one
of them is in firing position. To
determine which one do the following. With the valve covers off have someone
rotate the crankshaft so that the harmonic
balancer arrow moves from the 9 o clock position to the 12 o clock position.
While the crank is being rotated take note
of the movement of the exhaust rockers on the #1 and #6 cylinders. If the
exhaust rocker on #6 is moving then #1 is in
firing position, if the exhaust rocker on #1 is moving then #6 is in firing
position. If the latter is the case, rotate
the crank one full turn.

step 2 - loosen both rocker retaining nuts and then back the allen headed locks
out a few turns. Turn each retaining
nut until it is finger tight. Unless you have damaged stud threads, finger tight
is zero lash. Turn the retaining nut
whatever amount youve decided to go with minus 1/8 of a turn. With the retaining
nut held in place with a wrench,
tighten the allen headed locking screw until it's snug. Then, turn both the
retaining nut and the locking screw the
remaining 1/8 turn.

Note: I've heard of people going anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn of
preload. Whichever amount you decide on, make
sure you do all of them as close to the same as possible. I have been running
with 5/8 of a turn worth of preload for
some time now without trouble or noise.

step 3 - rotate the crank to the 3 o clock position.

step 4 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #8

step 5 - rotate the crank to the 6 o clock position.

step 6 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #4

step 7 - rotate the crank to the 9 o clock position.

step 8 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #3

step 9 - rotate the crank to the 12 o clock position.

step 10 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #6

step 11 - rotate the crank to the 3 o clock position.

step 12 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #5

step 13 - rotate the crank to the 6 o clock position.

step 14 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #7

step 15 - rotate the crank to the 9 o clock position.

step 16 - repeat step 2 for cylinder #2

Notes: If you are using the LT4 shouldered studs, no adjustment is possible. You
just screw those down all the way and
hope for the best. It's also not mandatory that all rocker adjustments start on
cylinder #1, it just made it easier to
explain. If you wanted to you could put the arrow in the 9 o clock position and
start on #3 for example, youd just
start the firing order in a different place.

Reference info

firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Cylinder numbers and rocker designations

8e 7e
8i 7i

6i 5i
6e 5e

4e 3e
4i 3i

2i 1i
2e 1e

front of car

e=exhaust
i=intake

Hope this helps

[94 formula]

Thanks a lot for the help.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Several methods of valve adjustment are on my Tech Page. 9th down in the "How To" list.