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just broke 2 bolts off y-pipe

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  • just broke 2 bolts off y-pipe

    I was trying to swap the O2 sensors too see if they were the problem to my left-side lean condition. I couldn't get to the passenger's side O2 without dropping the y-pipe. Well, it turns out the bolts were so tight and not in the greatest condition...so 2 broke right off when I was trying to remove them (on the drivers side). Needless to say, what can I do now? I know 1 bolt won't hold it up. I was planning on getting some headers/y-pipe in the near future, but can't afford them now. Of course, if repairing this situation is going to be expensive and a waste of time, I might as well buy the headers now. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

  • #2
    Drill them out and replace with a nut and bolt. Same thing happened to my conquest where the turbo housing meets the downpipe. Drilled the studs out (not easy), and repalced as mentioned above. Shouldn't take too long. Good luck.

    Also, if you have enough stud to grab with some pliars, you could probably turn the existing stud out and have a clean hole w/no drilling.
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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    • #3
      Use PBlaster and remove the stud with vice grips or a stud remover. Stuff like this happens, just replace the stud.

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      • #4
        OK, thanks Joe and raro. I thought I would have to remove the manifold (then end up breaking those bolts on the head), etc. I'll get in there and replace them...
        94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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        • #5
          Thats what happened to mine. I sprayed them down good with pb and still couldn't get them out I ended up having to just drill them out like raro said. And about a month later I'm now putting on headers...well actually just getting done putting the heads back on since I had a broken header bolt.
          1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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          • #6
            Well, I just took a good look at the 2nd bolt I broke. Turns out it broke only about 1/2" from the bottom. It still had a good 3/8" to 1/2" below the actual y-pipe flange. Looks like I'll still reuse the stud and just get a new nut. Hopefully, the 2 bolts will be able to hold it up well before I get the headers in a few months. The only thing is that I still can't remove the passenger's side O2 sensor? I just can't seem to get access from anywhere, even with the y-pipe dropped Is there a special tool/socket to get it out?
            94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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            • #7
              Nevermind...did a search, and am off to buy an O2 sensor socket. Thanks for all your help guys.
              94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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              • #8
                Guys, remember pb blaster can only work so fast. Soak it a few times a day and let it sit. Come back before bed, soak it good, come out the next day, soak it again, and try again. It'll come loose. That stuff WORKS if you use it that way. Let it penetrate and it will save you a lot of "umph"
                97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                • #9
                  So it looks like I dropped the y-pipe for nothing. I couldn't even get out the passenger's side O2. I had the special socket, but there's so limited access, I can only use a tiny 3/8 rachet. It just wouldn't budge even soaked overnight. I did notice that the driver's side O2 didn't seem as tight...or nearly tight at all. So I managed to put it back on, tighten it, put the y-pipe back on, reset the PCM...and guess what...the same problem shows up. Left BLMs at 146, right at 128. The O2 readings look good, so I now doubt they are the culprit. Looks like I'll have to pull the manifold off again for a 2nd try.
                  94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                  • #10
                    Hang on did you say your only going with two studs? It won't work I've tried it. I even put small c clamps up there to try to hold the one side that had the broken stud. I took a look under my hood in the dark and could see flame shooting out. Also it will cause an incredibly bad exhaust leak and you to run really rich. Just take it from me and just do it right the first time.
                    1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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                    • #11
                      Yes, it is on 2 studs, but it is not causing it to run rich (on the passenger's side). The BLMs are steady at 128. It's the other side where there's something wrong, probably from the intake manifold install I did earlier. However, if I did have an exhaust leak previously - even with 3 bolts, it would cause the PCM to "correct" the left bank. All in all, I will get headers + y-pipe soon, so I can finally get rid of these old rusty manifolds. Thanks for your advice though
                      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                      • #12
                        So its not showing up rich at all? Mine really did especially if you got on it hard I'm guessing from the engine shifting around some under the power. Thats good your getting headers soon I have my car almost all back together after the nightmare I went through getting mine on. I can't wait to hear what the LT's are going to sound like.
                        1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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                        • #13
                          Cool, let me know how the LTs sound too. I'm sure the sound/hp gain will overshadow the install pains

                          I'm just going to stick with the mid-length AS&Ms...but I haven't even installed the Pro Mag rockers, springs, etc. yet.

                          The passenger's side shows no compensation for a lean condition whatsoever. I hate it because the BLMs just buried at 128, yet the other side is off the charts...and have no exhaust leaks there. I guess I do have a leak at the intake manifold, but do you know if it's possible to have a leak elsewhere that could cause the driver's side bank to compensate for a lean condition?
                          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                          • #14
                            Check your intake elbow. I got a rip in the bottom of mine where it couldn't be seen and it really made mine run lean. Also an exhaust leak before the o2 sensor makes you run rich I think. I always thought that it would cause something like a vaccum and suck in air making the o2s see way to much oxgyen so it would try to richen the mixture. Maybe someone else can proove that wrong but that was always my theory.
                            1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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                            • #15
                              The intake elbow is a Vortech with new seals. I will double check to make sure it's on tight. And you are right about the exhaust leak...it will cause it to run richer, thinking it's lean. It's just that I was able to seal up the y-pipe to the manifold well (at least on the passenger's side lol) with 2 bolts, that no leaks show up. I know it sounds far fetched, but I was able to do it...somehow. It's almost worth getting headers now to make eliminate the possibility of an exhaust leak there. Whatever the case, I have a main post about the intake leak problems that I will continue on. Thanks for all your advice and don't forget to tell me about them long tubes
                              94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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