Heads/cam/jet hot lt's what else

[PUREPWR]

Ok well im saving up for either a gsxr-750 or a heads cam combo. My question is what else do i need for the car to run right if I do RGR stage 2 heads, cc305 cam, and jet hot lt's and tuning. I men like will i need a better fuel pump, water pump, msd ignition.....ect...Ill have about 5k dollars to play with. And no i dont want to buy a supercharger yet.

[lt1maro]

dude you should start with suspension before you get head and cam. There is no use in having all that power if you cant hook up.

[lt1maro]

also loose the 10 bolt

[tclelland]

also loose the 10 bolt

Do the heads, cam and LT's and you will loose the 10 bolt

[fastTa]

Do the heads, cam and LT's and you will loose the 10 bolt

Not really. I was putting 488 RWHP through my 10 bolt w/ 4.10's and it never made a noise. There have been lots of f-bodies making much more power than that through the stock 10 bolt and they survived just fine. There have been several f-bodies in GM High Tech Performance magazine that were making around 600 RWHP and driving their car on the street with no problems with their 10 bolt. How long will it last? That is a gamble. Is the 12 bolt or 9" an better choice? Of course.

It all depends how the 10 bolt will be used. If it used on the street with street tires, the 10 bolt can take plenty of power. If it is going to be used atr the track often with slicks, then yes the 10 bolt won't last long.

Do the heads and cam. You won't regret it! But I have a feeling you know I was already going to say that.

[fastTa]

Keeping the stock opti setup will be fine with a stage 2 N/A setup. It would probably be agood idea to go ahead and replace the opti since you will have the motor torn down anyway. I would also replace the stock coil with something a little hotter like a Crane or Hypertech.

The stock fuel pump will most likely be overwhelmed with a stage 2 setup and will greatly depend on which cam you choose in the end. The stock pump is said to support around 400-425 flywheel HP. With a properly setup and tuned stage 2 h/c, you should be well in excess of that. Racetronix seems to have a pretty good plug-n-play kit for the LT1.

Also definitely get yourself an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Any reason why you want to go with the CC305 cam? That is a very oldschool cam and will not give you the best results. You should really go with a cam that is tailored to your heads, rear gear ratio, and whether you have a auto or m6.

The stock water pump will be fine, but if you want to eliminate the high rpm drag common to the stock cam driven pump, you could use an electric pump. I like the CSI electric pump. They make very good products.

[AmericanZ28]

Any reason why you want to go with the CC305 cam? That is a very oldschool cam and will not give you the best results. You should really go with a cam that is tailored to your heads, rear gear ratio, and whether you have a auto or m6.

What about the cc306 cam? How would this cam perform with stock LT1 heads? I remember you mentioning before that with this cam, and an auto tranny, a 2800 stall converter is a must. By calling the cc305 cam an "Old school" cam, are you suggesting that there are far better cams out there? Also, pureptwrta, I've heard many people say that it might be better to just buy better heads than to port out the original castings. Have you considered that as an alternative? I was looking through my summit catalog the other day, and I noticed that trick flow now sells heads for the LT1. It says though, that they've been designed for stroker, supercharged, or nitrous applications. Here are the details........

Cylinder Heads, Aluminum, Natural, 62cc, Chevy, Small Block, Pair

These Trick Flow aluminum LT1 cylinder heads are designed for supercharged, nitrous, and stroker applications. They feature 195cc intake ports, 75cc exhaust ports, and 64cc combustion chambers. These heads use your stock sensors and fittings. They're available in both bare and assembled versions. Assembled heads include intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, retainers, locks, guideplates, and studs.

Vendor Trick Flow Specialties
Product Line Trick Flow LT1 Aluminum Cylinder Heads
Cylinder Head Style Assembled
Cylinder Head Material Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 62
CNC Machined Combustion Chamber No
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 195
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc) 75
CNC Machined Intake Runner No
CNC Machined Exhaust Runner No
Combustion Chamber Style (Not Specified)
Intake Port Shape (Not Specified)
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape D-port
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Spark Plug Style (Not Specified)
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 2.020
Intake Valve Diameter (mm) (Not Specified)
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.600
Exhaust Valve Diameter (mm) (Not Specified)
Valve Springs Included Yes
Outside Diameter Of Outer Spring (in) 1.470
Damper Spring Included Yes
Number Of Springs Per Valve Single
Retainers Included Yes
Retainer Material Chromemoly steel
Locks Included Yes
Lock Style 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style Viton
Rocker Arm Studs Included No
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size (Not Specified)
Rocker Arms Included No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included No
Guideplates Included No
Guideplate Pushrod Size (Not Specified)
Valve Cover Mounting Style Centerbolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled Yes
Intake Valve Angle (Not Specified)
Exhaust Valve Angle (Not Specified)
Valve Guides Included Yes
Valve Guide Material Bronze
Valve Seats Machined Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style 3-angle
Valve Seat Material Tungston
Steam Holes Drilled No
Oiling Style Through pushrod
Machined For O Ring No
Heat Crossover No
Quantity Sold as a pair.
Notes Designed to fit LT1 engines.

[fastTa]

What about the cc306 cam? How would this cam perform with stock LT1 heads? I remember you mentioning before that with this cam, and an auto tranny, a 2800 stall converter is a must. By calling the cc305 cam an "Old school" cam, are you suggesting that there are far better cams out there?

The CC 304, 305, and 306 are were all ground using camshaft profile and engine technology that is over 10 yrears old. The ramp rates, duration splits, and lift/duration correlation on these CC camshaft grinds are not ideal for todays ported LT1 heads. A "common" custom grind cam will provide much better performance while at the same time provide better idle characteristics, fuel mileage, and vacuum.

For example, the CC 306 is 230/244, .510"/.540" 112 LSA. A similar Combination Motorsports cam at 230/236, .544"/.555" 112 LSA would yield more horsepower than the CC306 with a set of Stage II LT1 castings, yet it would idle better, give better gas mileage, and provide better vacuum.

Also, pureptwrta, I've heard many people say that it might be better to just buy better heads than to port out the original castings. Have you considered that as an alternative?

Stick with the OEM LT1 castings. They are the better design over most aftermarket heads such as the AFR's, Edelbrock's, and Trick Flow. BTW Trick Flow heads are junk.

As far as the price, a Stage II ported and fully assembled set of LT1 heads is cheaper than the price of a new set of fully assembled aftermarket LT1 heads in most cases. So it just makes sense to use the OEM castings. Combination Motorsports has done extensive engine dyno and head flow testing and with all things being equal as far as the head work, they were always able to make more power with the OEM castings. They simply provide better port velocity.

[PUREPWR]

Any reason why you want to go with the CC305 cam? That is a very oldschool cam and will not give you the best results. You should really go with a cam that is tailored to your heads, rear gear ratio, and whether you have a auto or m6.

There is no real reason why i chose that cam. Im not to familiar with cams and all the number and LSA stuff. What is a good heads/cam combo then? I dont want to waste my money on something then not get the power im looking for. What should i do with about 5k?

[fastTa]

There is no real reason why i chose that cam. Im not to familiar with cams and all the number and LSA stuff. What is a good heads/cam combo then? I dont want to waste my money on something then not get the power im looking for. What should i do with about 5k?

Do you have an auto or M6? How streetable do you need your car? What are your goals for power? Are you planning on keeping the bottom end stock?

With 5k you could do a nice heads/cam package, LT's, and maybe a economical stroker shortblock from someone like www.strokerkits.com. If your goal is 380-430 RWHP then a stage II head and a 228-234 range cam would get you there. If your goal is more than 430 RWHP, then go with a stage III head and maybe a slightly bigger cam.

[PUREPWR]

My ride is auto. I want the car to be street legal but not by much. My power goals are a little crazy. I want to have the fastest lt1 ever made, but that will have to wait til im older and get alot of money to use. Right now 430+ hp to the wheels sounds good. Im not sure what the bottom end consists of. Could u elaberate on that please.

See my buddy has a blown 95 z that is going to be our sleeper car. My car is going to be the loudest, baddest t/a around. I like everything wild so i guess i need to have my car wild. Would the stage 2 heads/one of those cams u mentioned/jethots lt's/no cats and a loudmouth be extremely loud?
thanks
tom

[fastTa]

My ride is auto. I want the car to be street legal but not by much. My power goals are a little crazy. I want to have the fastest lt1 ever made, but that will have to wait til im older and get alot of money to use. Right now 430+ hp to the wheels sounds good. Im not sure what the bottom end consists of. Could u elaberate on that please.

The bottom end consists of the rotating assembly which is the pistons, connecting rods, and crankshaft. It is generally said that the stock LT1 bottom end is OK to about 450-500 flywheel HP. So it is usually a good idea to start your buildup with a forged bottom end...or at minimum the rods and pistons.

Would the stage 2 heads/one of those cams u mentioned/jethots lt's/no cats and a loudmouth be extremely loud?
thanks
tom

Not necessarily. With the LM, it will of course be much louder than most of the other catbacks. At part throttle cruising speeds you won't notice a huge difference in loudness.............but when you crack open the throttle!

[MurphysLaw]

gsxr 750...ouch! Just to tell you a little story, I out ran a gsxr 750 with the cc306! Its a really awesome cam with head work done of course. But that cam was too small for me so I needed to upgraded to a solid roller setup.

don't limit yourself to hydralic lifter cams...depending on your weekly mileage you can street drive a solid roller cam!

Nevermind, I thought you were referring to the cS306...I feel stupid now. The cs306 is what I use to have. Its just a little solid roller cam.