Can someone explain the differences between front wheel drive and rear wheel drive to me? Aside from the obvious (one is pulled by the front wheels and the other is pushed by the rear wheels), is one better for handling? Of course front wheel drive is better for driving in bad weather but on dry ground which handles better? Which is better for off the line acceleration? From what i understand, rear wheel drive is better due to weight transfer or something to that effect but why do they make most sports cars with rear wheel drive rather than front wheel drive? DSM's caused me to start wondering about these differences. If you had two identical Eagle Talon's only one was front wheel drive and the other was rear wheel drive, which would win in a race? (I'm fully aware that there was no rear wheel drive option for DSM's). Thanks guys.
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Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
SOLD- Kinda miss it
94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
SOLD- Good riddance!
2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slowTags: None
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Well the rear wheel drive does give you better handling due to better weight distribution, the axle is in the back to help even out the weight of the engine. Most sport cars are probably made that way for that reason, but due to the drive shaft and the extra connections you do get a bit more parasitic loss. Now for those eagle talons i would give a road race victory to the rear wheel drive but for a 1/4 mile, i'm guessin the front drive for accelaration(the more weight on the drive tires gives better traction) But i'm no expert so maybe someone else will be able to explain better.2006 Saturn Ion Redline
2003 Mits. Eclipse Spyder
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If you're only using FWD vs. RWD, I'll cast my vote for RWD. Like Ryan said, you have a better weight distribution with RWD. Plus, you also have something to control the rear end instead of the rear just being along for the ride while the front end pulls you through and does all the work. Yes, you do have more drivetrain loss, but you can also put more power through a RWD setup easier than with a FWD (or so I've seen, correct me if I'm wrong). With more power, you could easily float the rear end through a turn, have the torque carry you through then regain control in the rear, straighten out and take off.If you're most concerned with handling, AWD is probably the best when tuned properly with plenty of power. However, if you want good handling and good 1/4 times, RWD is the way to go. Hope this helps.Steve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever
Mods
87 GN - its just a 6...
Mods
93 Z28 - slightly tweaked
Mods
http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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Just curious but where have you seen a RWD Talon? I've only seen FWD or AWD. Anywhooo in a drag race you'll definately want the RWD platform becuase as soon as you start accelerating the weight will shift to the rear wheels. In a RWD this gives you better traction since weight is shifted to the drive wheels. Conversly in a FWD weight is transferred away from the drive wheels and traction suffers. Also in FWD once you start getting a good amount of horsepower you get "torque steer" where under heavy acceleration the car will pull to one side. I absolutely hate FWD for any performance aplication. I think that it is much better for family cars and econoboxes. There are a few FWD cars that are or can be made to be decent performers but for any real performance aplication you are usually better off with a RWD or AWD.
96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-
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Thanks guys. Something about FWD bothers me. I would have no problems driving a Civic if it was RWD. I love Buick Regal's too but again, FWD (and they don't come with a manual tranny
). I want to buy a DSM some day but if i can't get my hands on an AWD, i'll get a Mitsubishi Starion instead. I'm still dying to buy a twin turbo Stealth or 3000GT. It's like all of a sudden i have an interest in turbo charged imports. I always like domestics more though.
Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
SOLD- Kinda miss it
94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
SOLD- Good riddance!
2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow
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In response to Mr. Nice Guy:
It was a "What if?" type question.Originally posted by NightrageIf you had two identical Eagle Talon's only one was front wheel drive and the other was rear wheel drive, which would win in a race? (I'm fully aware that there was no rear wheel drive option for DSM's). Thanks guys.Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
SOLD- Kinda miss it
94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
SOLD- Good riddance!
2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow
Comment
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Next time you see a car launch and lift both front wheels, ask yourself what would happen if it was front wheel drive? Under acceleration the weight of a vehicle shifts to the rear wheels, no matter if is front drive, or rear drive.
If you apply enough power to a rear drive car, the front wheels will eventually come off the ground. At that point, 100% of the cars weight is on the rear wheels giving optimal traction.
If you apply enough power to a front drive car, the weight will transfer to the rear wheels until there is no longer enough weight on the front wheels for them to hold traction. all it will do is give you a kinky front wheel burn out while you go nowhere.. Yay.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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Weeeeeeeeelllll...if you want a turbo vehicle, there's always a GN out there looking for a good home lol
Steve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever
Mods
87 GN - its just a 6...
Mods
93 Z28 - slightly tweaked
Mods
http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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kevgoof
first of all if you make alot of power with a rwd it dosent mean your gonna lift off the ground if your on street tires your still gonna spin just not as bad as fwd so you might as well get a rwd for some summer fun and get a cheap winter fwd car for thos slippery freadfull days
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If you're looking at a turbo import and don't mind doing an easy engine swap check out a 240sx and put the SR20det or CA18det motor/tranny in it. These are both available in the S13(240sx, Silvia, 180sx) chassis in japan and can be purchased for $2000 or less. These have very good potential. My brother has one that makes 330 RWHP and has less money in it than you'd spend on a new hyundai elantra and everything is practicly new but the body. I've thought of doing one but don't have the money right now.....Some day maybeOriginally posted by NightrageThanks guys. Something about FWD bothers me. I would have no problems driving a Civic if it was RWD. I love Buick Regal's too but again, FWD (and they don't come with a manual tranny
). I want to buy a DSM some day but if i can't get my hands on an AWD, i'll get a Mitsubishi Starion instead. I'm still dying to buy a twin turbo Stealth or 3000GT. It's like all of a sudden i have an interest in turbo charged imports. I always like domestics more though.

96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-
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I'm with you on the financial situation my friend. I'm just partial to a few imports. Mainly the 3000GT.Originally posted by Mr Nice GuyIf you're looking at a turbo import and don't mind doing an easy engine swap check out a 240sx and put the SR20det or CA18det motor/tranny in it. These are both available in the S13(240sx, Silvia, 180sx) chassis in japan and can be purchased for $2000 or less. These have very good potential. My brother has one that makes 330 RWHP and has less money in it than you'd spend on a new hyundai elantra and everything is practicly new but the body. I've thought of doing one but don't have the money right now.....Some day maybe
Red 95 Trans Am: M6, Moroso CAI, Magnaflow, Spohn sway bars, back to life as of 2/15/10!!!
SOLD- Kinda miss it
94 Del Sol VTEC: 27 city/ 33 highway, knee deep in slowness
SOLD- Good riddance!
2006 Ford Fusion: 2.3, 5 speed, could run 15lbs of boost with a 150 shot and it'd still be slow
Comment
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I like the Mitsubishis as well but they're known to have driveline problems when you start upping the power on them. I used to want an AWD DSM but decided against it becuase of that problem. BTW I always thought the Star/Quests looked cool

96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-
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My friend has a nissan sentra with the SR20DET motor in it. He spent about 20,000 which includes labor because he didn't want to do it himself. Let me just tell you, it makes and is tuned for 30psi of boost, and about 4 transmissions later....we still don't know what it runs. What is funny about it thought is that he isn't breaking the internals on the trannys, he's actually cracking the casing somehow. All the internals are fine on each transmission we take apart. His suspension is super tight, which from what I understand makes it handle better but also gives it less wheel hop (??). I rode in it once and there is absolutely no body roll while taking turns at high speeds. SUPER GO-KART. If he could just get a tranny to hold up, we can take it to the track and time it. Keep in mind also though, that while the motor is built and tuned to handle 30psi of boost, he's been breaking the trannys only running it at 15psi of boost. I can just imagine how bad he's gonna break trannys at 30psi. Never under estimate the power of the Japanese. They have to get us back from bombing their country somehow..hahaha.1995 Pontiac Formula Firebird 383 Stroker 11.5:1 compression, ASM Thottle body, Custom Grind Comp Cam, MSD ignition, BMR strut, k-member, Upper and Lower control arms, rear control arms, and still a work in progress.
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