wich plugs are the worst to get out on a 94 Z 28? i am going to do mine tonight or tomorrow, and i figure ill do the hardest ones first, and work m way to the easy ones. and any tips on what to use for tools?
thanks
Jeff
2000 WS6 T/A M6. Monster stage 3 clutch, flowmaster cat back, 4.10's, SLP lid, Hurst shifter.
1996 Mustang GT 5 speed STOCK DD
past rides:
1996 Mustang GTS bright tangerine orange
2003 Mach 1 azure blue drag car (10.90@118 record holder for fastest N/A mach)
1969 Mach 1 house of colors candy apple red393 stroker 100 shot (10.829@125 in street trim)
2003 Mach 1 Torched red FRPP aluminator/vortech 666RWHP
2008 Mustang GT JDM stroker long block, Saleen 2.3 twin screw
1980 Mustang L 13.7: 418 stroker
1994 Z28 A4 rebuilt from wreck
1994 Z28 A4 totaled
Save the hardest one for last. Then immediately get on the board and make a big long post about how much LT1 engines suck like the rest of us have done for the last 10 years
"No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"
Step 1, disconnect battery, remove alternator, remove starter, change plugs 1,3,5,7,8,6, cuss at removing #4, sware bedammed every curse word you can thing of trying to get #2 out and back in. This may not be the right thing to do but bending the pipe that goes behind the air pump out and back lets you get your hand in there. GRRRRRRR
I had forgotten how much fun it was till today. I bought a set of MSD plug wires. This will be my last LT1. Stupid pipe coming out of the bottom of the air pump makes it a PITA to get the wires out of that plastic little thing that retains the wires to the bracket. 2.5 hours to get the old set off. I sure am glad the wires come with those little wire number rings to go around the wires. I wish I had done this when I put plugs in it.
Can I get the coil wire out and back in the OPTI without taking the water pump off?
I wonder how the LS1 compares to this.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
I don't recall removing the starter to change the plugs/wires?
Well my arm is too big to get it between the exhaust pipe and the oil pan. It made it a lot easier to unbolt it and slide it forward. I tried to go from the top but that didn't go well.
I have the dirvers side wires back on. Time to go cuss some more.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
I pulled the alternator, y-pipe, and loosened something over on that side of the engine (power steering pump, air pump, don't really remember) when I did mine. I did plugs and wires, and it took me two days, because I got so pissed the first day that I gave up before I broke something.
"No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"
I pulled the alternator, y-pipe, and loosened something over on that side of the engine (power steering pump, air pump, don't really remember) when I did mine. I did plugs and wires, and it took me two days, because I got so pissed the first day that I gave up before I broke something.
LOL I feel your pain, literally.
Argggg Well I successfully turned a little skip into a big one. I went back through the plug connection side and they are all good. I must not have one plugged into the OPTI good. I think it is #8. It looks like it is 1/4" further out than #2 right below it.
What did everyone else do when they put larger plug wires in about the little plastic wire router on the front of the passenger side air pump/alternator bracket? It has a curve in the bracket. The MSD 8.5 wires won't fit. I also couldn't get the plastid wire clamp on the side of that bracket snapped close. Same reason.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
Did mine in 5 hours 1 guy on top an 1guy under the car. I have tons of tools
that helped.But the hardest part of the job is coming up with new cuss words
you use up all the ones you know. the guy that helped my said the next this
has to be done to let him know a few day's before so can be a 1000 miles
away. But he is a Ford man. upps I yous that 4 letter word please don't
kick me off the site I will never use it on more. Good luck an have fun an
start with #2 it is all down hill after that. P.S. have lots of cold Beer for
when the job is done you will need it. If you need help call me my # is
un listed. Blazer
I put Crane Firewires in mine when I did the plugs, and they "mostly" fit in the stock holders. It was a PITA, but I got them in there. I've heard the same thing on the MSD's about them not fitting, but most people that I know just got them in there the best they could, clamped the plastic piece down as best they could, then held it down with a big mofo wire tie.
"No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"
Use a 3/8" ratchet with a 5/8" sparkplug socket. Go to Sears and get a 3/4" inch
long 3/8" extension. I think it's like $3.99 for the extension. A 3" extension
will help too in some places. Get some dielectric grease also for when you put
the sparkplug wires back on. And last but not least, get some anti-seize for
the sparkplug threads when you put the new ones back in.
The plugs are numbered: I'm sure you may already known this.
1-3-5-7 from the drivers side front to back.
2-4-6-8 from the passenger side front to back.
Unhook the battery
Number 1. Easy. Came right out.
Number 3. Easy. Came right out.
Number 5. Medium. Remove plastic cover over the steering linkage for more room.
It just slides on. Came right out.
Number 7. Skip for now.
Number 2. Medium. Put the socket and extension on first. Then the ratchet. A
little tricky but it can be done. This way you don't have to remove the
alternator. Although moving the alternator really is no big deal.
Number 4. Easy. Came right out.
Number 6. Easy. Came right out.
Jack the car up.
Number 7. Easy. Can get to it from underneath.
Number 8. Hardest. Not really, just move the starter out of the way. Unbolt the
2 bolts and move it towards the front of the car resting on the engine cross
piece. Don't even have to unhook it. (another reason for unhooking the
battery). Able to reach it then, no problem. I tried from the top, but had to
reach pretty far back. Made it hard to do.
Number 2. Medium. Put the socket and extension on first. Then the ratchet. A
little tricky but it can be done. This way you don't have to remove the
alternator. Although moving the alternator really is no big deal.
Medium??? It took me 3 hours to change that one plug. I couldn't get my hand in there. My wife says I have big hands.
Well here is one for everyone. I put on a set of MSD plug wires yesterday and when I got through, I had a dead cylinder. I went back through the plug connections twice and the OPTI once. Still I had a dead cylinder. My neighbor came by, slid under it and said without blinking "I can tell you what's wrong right now." I said how can you do that. (My neighbor builds race car engines all day. Nice neighbor to have ) He said it's the little metal shields that are over the spark plug boots. He said his wife had a V6 firebird that had a skip in it and he saw it arcing to it when it was dark. So I reached up there and pulled the 2 off on the drivers side and he did the passenger side (thank you very much) and it fixed it. I would have never figured that out.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
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