Errrrrrrrrrrr. I bumped the fitting on the radiator for the TB coolant return when I was last working on it. Well, there was enough of a crack that it blew last weekend. I am thinking that I should drill and tap the plastic housing, and screw in a brass fitting. What do you think, and suggestions on the best fix for this? I am really ticked; its awful when problems your fault...dang it!!!!!
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'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson -
I probably shouldn't comment on it but if it were me, what do you have to loose by drilling and tapping it. You can't do anything to put the fitting back on. The only other thing I can think of is to get a new radiator. I radiator repair shop might be able to replace the tank. You could call one of them.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen" -
The plastic tanks just don't last forever, the local radiator shops around here wanted $100 per tank replacement, so I purchased a new radiator from PWI for $165.
The tank on my '94 lasted till last December and 215k miles. It actually started to become pourous below the filler neck, above the coolant level switch. I epoxied it, and it last another couple of months until I replace the whole unit.The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.
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