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  • Opti?..really confused

    I'm almost at 110k with the original opti so it is probably my problem but heres whats happening to my car. About a year ago I picked up a low end stumble, around 1100-1500 rpms my car would slightly sputter under load such as going up a hill. I noticed this happened especially when the engine got warm such as sitting in traffic (stock fans and thermostat). It ran sometimes good sometimes not for a while than the stutter picked back up. I replaced my plugs and wires and it seemed do the trick for a month or so then it began again when the car passed the 200 degree mark. So I installed a fan switch and 180 degree thermostat. Problem solved again for a while. Then it restarted right about the time I was ready to do headers (just recently). While doing my headers I replaced my 02 sensors. This seems to help but it still stumbles down low and sometimes in the 4500-5000 range. This only happens though when the car is warm (180) degress. It runs smooth and fine while in closed loop. Does the opti have all of its functions in closed loop? I'm confused I know an opti is not a regular distributor but I figured it still had all of its functions while in closed loop? Is there something I'm missing here or should I just go get a new opti. Also is there anyway to clean them (I mean the distributor part) and would just replacing the distributor work. I'm not getting any high res codes. It seems to be heat related but I'm not sure. I'm sorry this is so long but I'm starting to get really confused.
    1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

  • #2
    Im having the same exact problem, but my opti is less than 4 months old. Im not saying its not the opti, but im going to change the igntion module tomorrow and see. This is the only ignition component that is older than 3 or 4 months, so we'll see.

    I have not gotten it on the scanner yet (and I suppose thats foolish), but it feels like an ignition breakdown to me. If the ignition module doesnt fix it, I will put it on the scanner and take a look and try to see if its fuel or spark related. If its still spark, I guess I will be changing my optispark again. PM me in a few days and I will tell you of my progress.
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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    • #3
      I can hook my car up to datamaster on wednesday would that help any?
      1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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      • #4
        The coil and driver module are both mounted on the front of the driver's side head. There was some evidence of heat soak related ignition breakup in some cars. A couple of washers between the coil bracket and the head allows the coil and module to run a little cooler. It would be intersting to see if any blue glow could be seen around any plug wires or coil brackets with the hood up in the dark while the engine is running and brought up to varous rpms. Any leakage will show up.

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        • #5
          I replaced the module. That was dumb. I figured it was worth a shot, but it wasnt Tomorrow im going to put it on the scanner and see what I get.
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Joe 1320
            The coil and driver module are both mounted on the front of the driver's side head. There was some evidence of heat soak related ignition breakup in some cars. A couple of washers between the coil bracket and the head allows the coil and module to run a little cooler. It would be intersting to see if any blue glow could be seen around any plug wires or coil brackets with the hood up in the dark while the engine is running and brought up to varous rpms. Any leakage will show up.

            Joe, I just did what you said. I ran the car in the dark and watched around the coil and I can see a considerable amount of blue glow at certain rpms. Its not arcing or anything, but the coil itself seems to be glowing blue as I rev it. I would assume this means the coil is breaking up? The interesting part is that this was my first assumption when the problem started to occur, so I returned the brand new coil I had on it to the parts store for another brand new coil and the problem was the same. So, are both the coils bad? I am definately seeing the blue glow. Maybe a stock replacement coil just isnt doing it?
            96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
            11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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            • #7
              well i really dont know much about this situation but isnt their somthing out their that u can buy that it eliminates the opti spark and it has something like individual coils like the ls-1? ive seen alot of people having problems with the opti y hasnt anyone tried to get rid of it?
              1967 Camaro "Project"
              1972 Chevelle "454"
              1979 Trans Am "Project Ls-1"

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              • #8
                There are products offered but nothing has completely eliminated the opti yet. Also I have almost 110k on the ticker and an origional opti. If thats whats wrong with mine I can just pick up another from gmpartsdirect for $300 and problems solved. Other options are not nearly as cheap. Also most optis have prooved to not be as reliable as a regular distributor but remeber it is part of general matinence I had to replace the cap and rotor on my 91 wrangler at 115k its just part of general upkeep of the car. Only difference was I walked out of advance auto with one for $20 not gonna do that with an opti .
                1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by RocKin1967
                  well i really dont know much about this situation but isnt their somthing out their that u can buy that it eliminates the opti spark and it has something like individual coils like the ls-1? ive seen alot of people having problems with the opti y hasnt anyone tried to get rid of it?

                  You see the problem with the Opti is its location, Its under the water pump. So water gets in it and oxidizes the cap and rotor electrods. This can be fixed with a cap and rotor change but thats 120$. Also the Opti does not give the coil enought time to charge between cylinder firing at high RPM (5200 and above). The Optical sensor in the unit hardley ever goes bad.

                  There is a company that uses the Optical Sensor in the Opti as a crank trigger and sends a relay to a coil on pack system thant uses four coils (1 per 2 plugs). I think there call Delphi. The Complete system sells for $600 and change.
                  1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
                  2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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                  • #10
                    I fixed it. I actually had 2 bad coils in a row. That will throw ya off I bought a used OEM coil and installed it. I let it idle up to temp and then took it for a ride and no stumble! So, the moral of the story - dont buy your coils from ad**nced auto parts.
                    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                      I fixed it. I actually had 2 bad coils in a row. That will throw ya off I bought a used OEM coil and installed it. I let it idle up to temp and then took it for a ride and no stumble! So, the moral of the story - dont buy your coils from ad**nced auto parts.
                      Yep. That stuff is crap. Glad you found the culprit.

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