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  • Heat ??

    So its ben geting yucky and cold here, and i have noticed that when i drive my car it tends to start blowin cold air after a while. i let it warm up 5-10 min before i leave and it seems after about 15 min of driving or so it starts blowing cold air out the vents, and my windows fog up like crazy - stupid no rear defroster . did i possibly mess something up when i did my waterpump ?? thermostat mabey ?? also i noticed when the car gets hot you can smell the coolant burning almost. but i think that might be cuz mabey i put not enuf water in the mix.
    -Nick-
    95 A4 Z28

  • #2
    It sounds like you are losing pressure in your cooling system, at the heater core inside the car. If you are fogging up inside the car and you smell coolant, then there is a very good chance that the heater core, or lines running to it, are leaking inside the car.


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    • #3
      I cant smell it in the car, but when i park it sometimes i can.
      -Nick-
      95 A4 Z28

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      • #4
        Maybe your thermostats sticking? Also have you ever flushed your heater core.
        1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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        • #5
          Well, of course it has to be leaking somewhere to be able to smell the coolant. That is the one thing that sounds definite. I can't understand the fogging up inside the car without heated moisture getting in, unless its just the normal fogging that takes place during cool weather. Have you noticed your temperature on your gauge fluctuating? It sounds like you have an air bubble in the cooling system, and you most likely will also be a bit low on coolant because of it. Have you heard a knocking sound coming from the right front side of the car after you turn it off? With the air going to cool like that , there has to be a bubble in the cooling sytem or a pressure leak.


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          • #6
            It could also be time to replace your radiator cap. The radiator cap has to keep a good seal, to make everything work properly. The gaskets on those caps lose their seal after a while.


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            • #7
              Speaking of the cap don't forget to pressure test it. Good way to check the radiator, hoses, heater core etc... But the cap must hold the right amount of pressure, I think 18 lbs. Mine was bad a while back.

              jbs4radio
              --- Jared ---

              / 95 Z28 Camaro (Mystic Teal) / LT1 (+.030) / LT4 Hot Cam / 52mm BBK TB / Moroso CAI / 4LE60 + transgo shift kit / 2200-2500 Stall Converter / PCMforless Custom Tune / Edelbrock TES Headers /

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              • #8
                Replaced cap when i replaced pump, i did notice that when i did the pump it took a little less mixture than the manual said, but it was not much and after i ran the car once or twice i was able to add more. if there is a buble in there is my only solution to flush the system again ??

                i think there might be because i remember being unsure about which way the bleeder screws had to go when i was adding the coolant.
                -Nick-
                95 A4 Z28

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                • #9
                  Is the temperature on your temp guage running in the normal range after the car warms up and is it staying consistent?
                  Also check your oil and make sure that there is no coolant on your dip stick or under the filler cap, to make sure that there is no coolant in the oil.


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                  • #10
                    Yea car runs at normal temp ( except the few times i have been to the track) oil was fine i just checked it. ( did oil change yesterday)
                    -Nick-
                    95 A4 Z28

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                    • #11
                      If there is a bubble in the system, you don't need to flush it again, you just need to bleed the air out of the system. Did you do that after the water pump install? If not, that is probably your problem. If you did do it, it might just need done again.
                      Dave M
                      Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dave M
                        If there is a bubble in the system, you don't need to flush it again, you just need to bleed the air out of the system. Did you do that after the water pump install? If not, that is probably your problem. If you did do it, it might just need done again.

                        That's right. It sounds like everything else is kosher, except I don't understand the coolant smell. That usually indicates a leak or running hot and over flowing somewhere. I am not an expert, but I have bled the air out of my son's Firebird, several times, by cranking the car, letting it run and build up to normal temp., with the heater on high in the car. Pressure will build up, and you can relieve the air through the bleed valve. You may have to add some coolant after you get the bubble out, but you should get the heater to start working like its supposed to, once you get the bubble out of the system.


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                        • #13
                          Note: the heater has to be on in the car to allow complete circulation of the coolant, ortherwise it won't work to try to bleed the air out.


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                          • #14
                            Yea the smell is what had thrown me off too . . . but i have been puting newspaper under the car when i park it at home just to see n so far nothing. i did hear a bunch of bubly gurgly noises when i poped the hood . . . to the garage i go.
                            -Nick-
                            95 A4 Z28

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                            • #15
                              I'll bet those gurgly noises were coming from the front right next to the radiator, where you are supposed to add coolant. Make sure that you only add coolant there and not directly into the radiator, because that will cause air to get into the system.


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