sputtering/missing under 1700 RPM

[Z Ya Later]

When you pull the code, take a look at the link in my sig. I've got the entire DTC section from my 93 service manual scanned in there, to include the DTC Descriptions and Charts.

In case you don't know, you can flash the codes on the 93's using a paper clip and jumping the two top right ALDL pins together. If you need more specific directions let me know.

Thanks man. I've actually got a Chilton's with all the codes also, so no worries there . Also, I used the paper-clip trick to get the code for the EGR intermittent problem a few months back, so I know it will work. The only thing that worries me is when I did that, the car ran like crap. I shut it off and kicked her back over and she was fine after that. Very weird . I'll keep you guys posted, and thanks again for the help Fastbird93. Take care everyone.

[Z Ya Later]

So, we scanned it today. Code 32...EGR. Now, I remember Fastbird93 saying that his Opti didn't throw a code. I have the scan results in an Excel spreadsheet if someone wants to look at them and postulate, but they look normal. I didn't drive her though, just let her idle. Any guesses as to if its the high res or low res on the Opti? Thanks guys.

[Z Ya Later]

Nobody, huh? Nobody has any ideas as to which part of the Opti it might be, or if its something else (e.g. coil, loose plug, etc.)?

[94 formula]

Don't quote me on this but I think you'll only get a code for hires pulse. Hopefully someone can jump in here if i'm wrong but if you don't get a code its probably your cap and rotor but if you get the code its the optical part. I may be completely wrong though.

[Fastbird93]

Don't quote me on this but I think you'll only get a code for hires pulse. Hopefully someone can jump in here if i'm wrong but if you don't get a code its probably your cap and rotor but if you get the code its the optical part. I may be completely wrong though.

Actually there's code 36 for the high res pulse and code 16 for the low res pulse. The car will run ok with the code 36 showing, but if a 16 show up that's bad news, and you'll know it quick too.

Steve93Z, if you scanned the car using datamaster send me the .uni file and I'll take a look at it. Send whatever you have to me anyway and I'll have a look and see if I can decipher it and see anything fishy.

FWIW, a faulty EGR or cloggen EGR passages can have a negative effect on driveability down low. One simple check of the EGR would be to push the diaphram in at idle. If the car bogs down and tries to stall out, the egr itself is ok. If the car doesn't bog down then you've got a clogged passage.

[Z Ya Later]

We converted the file to a CSV file, then to an Excel file. I'll post both, but they should come out the same. Let me know if there are any problems. Thanks Fastbird93, you're my hero lol

home.comcast.net/~budlopez/test.csv
home.comcast.net/~budlopez/test.xls

Note: Anyone who wants to download the CSV file and is having a problem, right click on it and select save target as. The Excel file should start automatically.

[Z Ya Later]

Ok, went out to try to push on the EGR diaphragm...but its a solid metal piece. And, I glanced at the A.I.R. hose that runs behind the intake and noticed something. There's a small outlet, almost where a vacuum line would attach...but there's nothing hooked up to it and no open line near it. Could this be it? Or is this supposed to be bare? Thanks guys.

[Fastbird93]

Ok, I really hate to say this, but I just can't decipher that excel sheet. I understand what's it's showing but trying to decipher it and look for a problem isn't going to happen for me.

How did you scan the car, or rather what scanner did you use?

What I did see that was upon initially hitting closed loop, your left side O2 went REALLY lean, then came back up after a few minutes. That's about it.

[Z Ya Later]

We used Datamaster on Craig's laptop and it returned DTC 32 off of the car. Do you think it might be an O2 sensor problem? They are the originals I believe, so I wouldn't be surprised if they're going. Also, any idea on the opening I mentioned?

[Fastbird93]

That little opening had my attention at one point in time also. But don't sweat it, it's supposed to be there.

If this can wait until later this evening, you can email the datalog from datamaster to me in the datamaster .uni file format, and I'll take a look at it then (both my cars are 93's so I've definitely got the right definition files). That excel spreadsheet just wasn't too friendly on the eyes.

You said you scanned in using Craig's datamaster. He does have the $DA definition file, right? If he's using the $EE definiton file then it's going to throw back some weird readings.

[Z Ya Later]

He's got the DA version, yes. Unfortunately, I don't have the .uni file on me and Craig's gone for the weekend. So that opening isn't supposed to have anything connected to it? Also, how would I go about pushing on the diaphragm for the EGR valve? I don't see any openings myself, but I may not be looking close enough or in the right spot. And, what should I push on it with? Thanks a million for your help man.

[Fastbird93]

Well poop on Craig for leaving early then!!

If you're standing at the front of the engine bay looking at the EGR, the diaphram is the center section facing forward on the EGR assembly.

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg (Thanks to shoebox)

Using that pic, it would be directly behind the nut on the driver side that's holding the EGR on to the manifold. It should depress relatively easily using your fingers.

And yes, that one opening shouldn't have anything connected to it, provided it's the one on the black AIR hose above/behind the manifold.

[Z Ya Later]

Yeah, that's the spot I'm talking about. I saw it and thought that was the problem...then I remembered its never the easy stuff lol . I'll check out the EGR when I get home from work tonight. Assuming its the EGR valve and not the Opti (OH PLEASE GOD LET IT BE THE EGR!!!!), how much of a pain is it to do? Should I consider pulling the manifold or is it easy enough to do with the motor assembled. Thanks a bunch for your help man. I'd buy ya lunch if ya lived closer lol

[Joe 1320]

Stevo..... I would remove the EGR and the tube and really clean it up. It's rare that the valve goes bad, it usually gets carboned up. Same goes for the tube. While on the subject of carbon deposits, ever tried seafoam?

[Z Ya Later]

Stevo..... I would remove the EGR and the tube and really clean it up. It's rare that the valve goes bad, it usually gets carboned up. Same goes for the tube. While on the subject of carbon deposits, ever tried seafoam?

Can't say that I have. Would I be able to leave the intake manifold on and get the valve and tube off easily, or should I pull the intake? How much would I need to remove to get to the other side of the tube? I tried to feel for that this morning and couldn't even find it, yet on Craig's I found it without a problem. Then again, the 93 has a different fuel rail setup and has both of the crossovers in the back, so that was probably why. I've heard of seafoam, but have no idea where to get it. If the valve and tube just need to be cleaned up, I would just be looking at the cost of the 3 gaskets and the seafoam, right? Or is there something I'm missing?