Turbo/supercharge or head cam .

[1sickbird]

which is better head cam(rebuilt engine ls1) or supercharge for gaining horse power?

[DarkEnhancement]

That’s kind of a tough question to answer… But, a supercharger will most likely give you a little more HP than a head/cam package.

With the SC on a stock engine your limited to the amount boost you can use “most use 6-9 psi.” Which usually show a 100 HP gain. Where as most head/cam packages offer a 50-75 HP gain.

What you really want to do is both, plus internal mods. The combinations are endless, and too much to list, and ultimately depends on your budget. The SC with a set of ported heads, with a matching cam, and dished pistons to drop the comp ratio “depends on how much boost you want to use” would be the way to go for a pretty nice set up.

If your on a budget, why not consider nitrous; or are you opposed to the idea?

[1sickbird]

if i get turbo do i need to mod other part like gear ratio or tranny ?and if i don't do that will turbo messed up my engine or other part ? i don't know about nitro most guys in here using turbo, and nitro sound to me like for import car, or am i wrong ?

[DarkEnhancement]

In my opinion; turbo is the way to go… They take less HP to make HP, and they reach their peak HP at a lesser RPM range vs. the supercharger “since they are belt driven.” Boost is still boost, and you can use so much on a stock engine.

Anything that makes more HP, will make more problems; that’s just the way it goes. Your 10 bolt rear will most likely be the first to go.

Nitrous is not just for imports, most see nitrous as dangerous, and very explosive “people watch too many movies.” Nitrous is NOT flammable. When people refer to a “nitrous fire,” they are actually referring to fuel fire. When you use a “WET” nitrous kit, your introducing nitrous and fuel into your engine at the same time; if the fuel pre-ignites in the manifold it will basically “blow up” and cause a fire in some cases.

If you did decide to use nitrous, I would use a “WET” kit, believe it or not; it’s the safest… “Dry” kits are nitrous only, and if you do not use enough fuel to compensate for the nitrous, you will run lean, and most likely burn valves, or a hole in a piston.

There are plenty of kits out there… ZEX claims to have the safest, but your limited to 125HP. The ZEX kits use a the standard air intake fogger “most kits are this way.” The best way to go is a “WET” direct port fogger; it will start the nitrous and fuel in the runners of the heads, rather the air intake, T.B., or intake manifold. Most direct port applications are custom made, but NOS does offer a direct port kit, but you will pay a pretty penny for it.

When I build a car, I like to start at the rear of the car and work forward. Starting with rear suspension “F-Bodies are known for poor rear wheel traction.” You would be amazed how much time you can knock of your E/T’s with some traction. Sub-frame connectors, torque arm, lower CA’s, etc. will correct the traction problem. Changing the rear gears, or rear end all together is also good “weak ten bolts!” Then move up to the tranny; not necessarily a build up “depends on your HP goal,” but a nice stall, or clutch to transfer power will do just fine. And, then move up to the engine mods… You get my point…?

[1sickbird]

that is awesome knowledge for me about suspension i aiming for bmr Get a Strut Tower Brace and Subframe connectors(weld) (if you know better brand please let me know and please not too expensive lol) then lower control arms(boxed). then i'll move to gear 4:10 ( i heard less than $200).i hope that should be enough for my ws6 01 and i don't know what to do with trany all i know guys here sayng about 5.0 pro shifter.