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  • optispark?

    i've never had any problems w/ my ignition system but my car hits like a governor at 5000 rpms and i flushed the tranny i noticed the maf sensor was corroded (excessive k&n filter oil) but i can't seem to find the problem in the tranny its drives fine
    but if i punch it at 25 and let it shift into 1st until second right as it wants to shift it vibrates and won't shift. is there a way to test the optispark or just wait for it to kick the bucket
    Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

  • #2
    El no conpredo
    1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
    2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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    • #3
      Could be fuel pressure. You need air and fuel to make power. I would have the pressure checked at WOT. hook up a guage with a long enough hose that you can tape it to a wiper arm. this way you can view pressure under load and high rpms.

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      • #4
        i appreciate the replies i wasn't clear
        I will explain better-
        the trannsmission was my first assumption, becuz it felt like it wouldn't shift into second at WOT, then i noticed that it did the same for third at WOT. So that nullified that tranny problem.
        I have a pressure guage that i know will work so maybe tomarrow i can try that out, I looked at a fuel filter like 10 bucks.
        what the recommendation on plugs and plug wires? i heard like 75k some people say even 100k for platinum plugs. i have them but i haven't got around to doing it. I would like to know what the symptoms of a bad optispark i have read a few posts that sound similar to my car.
        Black 95 z28, 60k miles, 10 spoke SS rims, k&n cai, flowmaster,hypertech 3, 3.42's, running 13.8@ 101 with slicks

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        • #5
          My bet: plugs and wires. I had the exact same problem you did. At the strip, I would launch pretty well, then seem to hit a fake rev limiter. It would sit there in 1st at ~5600 RPM, not shifting unless I let off. It did the same for all gears. I couldn't get better than a 14.3@96 because of this. I had the tranny rebuilt, and still the same problem. Once I changed the plugs and wires, it ran beautifully. The problem was gone. I used NGK TR-55 with Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires.

          It wasn't until 15k later where the opti failed. Here were the symptoms of the opti for me: It would idle erratically, from 550 all the way up to 1000+. It would also die once in a while at idle. Sometimes it would start back up, sometimes it would keep turning over and over without starting for hours. Lastly, the SES light might pop up showing code 16 or 36. I got 36, so I immediately go the opti replaced.
          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Hobbs95
            i appreciate the replies i wasn't clear
            I will explain better-
            the trannsmission was my first assumption, becuz it felt like it wouldn't shift into second at WOT, then i noticed that it did the same for third at WOT. So that nullified that tranny problem.
            I have a pressure guage that i know will work so maybe tomarrow i can try that out, I looked at a fuel filter like 10 bucks.
            what the recommendation on plugs and plug wires? i heard like 75k some people say even 100k for platinum plugs. i have them but i haven't got around to doing it. I would like to know what the symptoms of a bad optispark i have read a few posts that sound similar to my car.
            That really wasnt any better.
            1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
            2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

            Comment


            • #7
              Seems like its hitting a brick wall at 5,000rpm, if I understand your problem. Does it simply keep cutting out, and refuse to go over 5,000rpm, as if there was a rev limiter? Or do the RPM simply start to climb more slowly as the engine misfires and bucks? Is it more sensitive to this problem in higher gears, or will it simply NEVER go past 5,000rpm?

              In either case, sounds like you're running out of fuel or spark. First, did you clean the "corroded" MAF sensor? If its some K&N oil, it probably isn't corrosion, just buildup of oil and dirt particles. It can be cleaned with a non-silicon electronics cleaner. If the crud is sticky, a light touch with a Q-tip should be enough to clean it up.

              Have you had it scanned for any stored trouble codes? Done a data log to see how the sensors and PCM parameters are responding to various operating condition? If not, might be worth a try.


              Then start looking at the possible causes of the misfire, or whatever it is. I agree.... a little more detailed description of exactly what is happening at 5,000 RPM would be helpful.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                Few things I would check.... Not exactly sure of the problem you are describing.

                TPS Sensor - might be worn out (can test with a voltmeter)
                Proper Fluid & Level for tranny fluid - mabey low pressure under wot?
                Throttle body cables - check cables & tension/play (TV Cable?)

                Sounds like some kind of tranny problem to me from what you have described. What happens with the following. Should help narrow it down a little.
                - If you rev the engine to 5k in neutral, does it stutter then? Only on WOT?
                - Did the problems exist before the tranny flush, or after?
                - Is idle steady @ ~500 rpms, or does it sound like it has a stumble/miss?
                1995 Firebird Formula
                (A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers ,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]

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