Replacing Head gasket

[Cade93TA]

I am going to replace my head gaskets. I was needing to know what other gaskets will i need to replace in the process? INtake? TIming Cover? Throttle body?

Thanks

Cade

[Joe 1320]

You need to pick up a headgasket "kit" that includes all the other stuff needed. They should come with headgaskets, intake, TB, o-rings for fuel, etc.... everything except head bolts. The stock bolts are torque to yield and cannot safely be re-used. The kit is about $190, headbolts are about $25.

[Cade93TA]

Im glad you told me about the bolts..good to know. Any good companies to get the gasket kit from?

thanks

[raroZ28]

You need to pick up a headgasket "kit" that includes all the other stuff needed. They should come with headgaskets, intake, TB, o-rings for fuel, etc.... everything except head bolts. The stock bolts are torque to yield and cannot safely be re-used. The kit is about $190, headbolts are about $25.

Joe, while we're on the subject, is there an ARP stud for these cars? I would assume so, but I would also assume you coulnd't put the head over a stud because there isn't enough room in the back. Just wondering. I would rather pay about 80 bucks for the studs... Never have to buy head bolts again.

I've reused them on my conquest about 5 times.

[raroZ28]

Im glad you told me about the bolts..good to know. Any good companies to get the gasket kit from?

thanks

I have heard of people successfully reusing head bolts. I wouldn't rec. it, but if you would have already installed everything I would just advise you to check the torque after a few miles, and keep an eye on them. Head bolts DO stretch and WILL not hold torque, but I have heard some have had luck reusing head bolts.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

The head gaskets cost more than the bolts. Why would you take the chance? Even with the ARP bolts, you should only use them a couple times. Some years of LT1s didn't have the torque-to-yield bolts, and in that case, you could probably reuse them. But I am a real believer in quality fasteners and I think they are part of the reason my engines have held together. You also have to have the right surface prep on the block & heads mating surfaces for the gaskets to work correctly, especially important with aluminum heads. Then you need the right sealant, and you need to take that into consideration when torquing it down, cause a moly lube or teflon sealer on the threads is going to return a different value than a lightly oiled or dry fastener.

[raroZ28]

The head gaskets cost more than the bolts. Why would you take the chance?

I wouldn't, and I don't recommend it, I have just heard of people doing it. I also thought that ARP head studs carried a lifetime warranty. Maybe not? Not sure, I would have to double check. But just to clarify, I'm not saying reusing head bolts is all right. I'm the same way with my fasteners, that's why it's strictly ARP for me.

Also, Cade, if you've never done a head gasket before, be sure you have a manual. Torque loosening, and tightening sequence is VERY important. Taking them off in the wrong sequence could damage the head (warpage, etc...). Also, when torquing the head bolts, do them in the correct sequence in increments. If the torque is say 85 ft lb's, torque each bolt in the correct sequence to 25, then to 50, then to 70, then finally to 85. I would rec. ARP moly lube on the bolts, you can get this at most machine shops. My machinist gives it to me free, so I'm not sure what it costs.

Like kevin said, cleanliness is VERY IMPORTANT. Make sure all the old gasket material is off, and make sure you keep your cylinders clean. I would place clean rags in each cylinder while you clean the block surface to catch any debris, then pull the rags out quickly when you're done, just don't fling it into the other cylinders. I went as far as getting a mini vacuum cleaner to suck any excess debris out of the clyinders.

Being clean is one of the most important things in doing an engine... Also, before I put a head back on, I like to put a thin coat of stp on the cylinder walls. I don't like starting it dry, but that's just me. Good luck man, ask if you have any questions.

Sorry if you're not a newb to this lol, I just assumed this was your first time doing a head gasket after reading what you said about reusing the head bolts..

[94 formula]

If you would reuse your bolts if they wouldn't work would they fail right away? I'm kicking myself in the butt right now I have no clue why but I never thought about it when I put my heads on. Seriously I don't understand how dumb I could have been to forget something that simple. I have 1000 miles on my car since redoing the heads and absolutely no problems...yet

[raroZ28]

94 I'll go out on a limb and say you're another guy who has reused head bolts without a problem. It might be worth your time to pull the valve cover to check the torque though. If it's off, replace them.

[94 formula]

So I should be alright if they've worked so far? I skimp on a few things but head bolts would not be one thing. I've been sitting here just kicking myself in the butt for being that dumb.

[Joe 1320]

This is a dicey subject. There were two methods used to apply torque to the head bolts/studs. One method is a stepped torque, where you tighten each bolt in the proper order but with increasing torque in steps. It takes several times through the sequence to get to the final torque. The other method is doing an initial torque, then then tightening per a prescribed angle. This way the bolt may get an initial torque of 22 ft-lb, then tighten an additional 60º. With this method you will need to have a rotational angle meter that slips on the wratchet. My manual calls for stepped torque on 93s but angle for 94 and up. Why? Don't really know but my guess is that the factory had problems with the 93 method. The reason is that no load is being recorded on the fastener. I believe that each bolt or stud is going to have it's own rotational resistance and it's own internal metalurgy that may vary it's clamping force. To merely rotate an addition XX amount of degrees does not account for this. I have seen a fastener torqued to a certain rotational degree, the torque measured, the fastener rotated another 25º and the torque load was unchanged. In my experience in keeping engines together suggests that the most amount of compression of the gasket at equal fastener torque value keeps the gasket from prematurely blowing. by doing the simple angle method, you could have a torque of 70 ft-lb, yet still be able to rotate the faster a certain number of degrees and still have the same torque reading. Even though I have an angle meter, I still went with my own method of torque in steps, but made sure that I couldn't rotate any further without raising the torque value. That angle meter is a bear when you are doing this on the car.

As far as what to do since you already re-used the headbolts? The only thing I would do is after a thousand miles, pull the valve covers and check the torque of the bolts, but do so very carefully. Follow the proper order and use the 93 method to torque and not try to use the angle method. Whatever you do, don't loosen a fastener and then retorque. Then in another 3K miles, pull the valve cover and check them again. As long as they hold, you should be fine. Yes, studs can be used. The only difference between the studs and bolts is how the load is applied to the fastener. Studs are far superior and are a good insurance clause.

[fastTa]

Thunder Racing has the gasket package and the studs you need: LT1 head gasket package You want part # 111-13-LT.

Some people have succesfully re-used the factory cylinder head bolts, but I would venture to say that their success was merely luck. That is a gamble in which the odds are not stacked in your favor. I would spring for the ARP's. An interesting thing to consider on LT1's is the tight space surrounding the top of the cylinder head studs (bolts). ARP makes a 12 pt head stud that makes life a little easier getting everything back together. It is also on the link I provided above and is part # 234-4301.

Good luck with your project and remember to put all of your bolts in little ziplock baggies and label them with a magic marker! It will make life easier.

[Cade93TA]

OH Man! Im glad you guys answered! I was more ignorant than I thought. I do have a Chiltons manual which is going to help a lot, but not as much as experience. Thanks again guys I will look into all this stuff. Any recommendations on how to remove a broken header bolt from the head when I have it out?

Cade

[raroZ28]

First, I would try an easy out. Craftsman has a set, and it's worked wonders for me. Not too sure on a header bolt though, those things really get in there. I had a header bolt stuck in the head once, and I just had my machinist take it out while he was doing work on the head. Cost me 15 bucks for him to remove it and install a helicoil.

I would try the easy out though, if you have them, if not, they're really not a bad investment. I never thought it would come in so handy until I got them. Pulled the timing cover off an engine once, and the chain guides were all snapped off, and there were 3 bolts stuck in the block. EASY OUT took literally under 5 minutes to get them all out

[raroZ28]

Oh yeah, if you're set on getting that header bolt out, I have heard of many guys that have just drilled it out and put in helicoils themselves. Never done it myself though.