hey my buddy has a 97 camaro LT1 and he wants to put a pulley on it.. what is the way that you would take the original pulley off without taking the hub off??? any special techniques.. because the pulley is on there really good
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Crank pulley? You want to loosen it without moving the crank, so what I'd do is take a big ratchet, put it on the crank, and hit it good with the deadblow. This'll loosen it without rotating the crank counter clockwise.97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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waste of money and way too much hassle the small gain you get.
just my two cents..........
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sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.Comment
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Ditto, waste of time and money on an LT1. And, all of your accesories will turn slower as well unless you pulley them with an overdriven pulley.Originally posted by wolfman
Not exactly sure what you mean by the crank pulley is hard to get off. It is only held in place by 3 short bolts that attach the pulley to the crankshaft hub. Once you get the 3 bolts out, the pully will just wiggle off the center of the crank hub.Comment
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Yes... do NOT "take a big ratchet, put it on the crank, and hit it good with the deadblow. " The pulley is simply held on the hub by three bolts. There is no need to touch the crank bolt. The bolts are unevenly spcaed, so it can only be put back one way.
From the factory, it falls off when you remove the three bolts. Unfortunately, rust makes some of them almost impossible to remove. Apply a good rust penetrant like PB Blaster, let it sit for a while, try a littl leverage on the back of the pulley, tap the inner ring of the pulley gently with a hammer..... might break it loose. Do not apply any pressure or tap on the outer ring of the pulley, you could damage the rubber ring that connects the inner and outer rings.
If all else fails, Shoebox has a removal procedure using a 3-jaw puller:
But, as Ken and Kevin point out, it isn't really worth the effort.... Keith at ws6.com did a dyno and gained 0.70 peak HP - yes that is 7/10's of 1 whole HP. Average gains are a little higher than peak. But you can have some problems with the charging system if you overdo the U/D ratio.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htmFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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thanks.. the pully does not just come off.. its like it was pressed on there.. it is a total b!tch...Comment
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I would imagine that the weather the car is driven in on a regular basis plays a major role in how hard the crank pulley is to pull off of the crank hub. Cars driven in wet conditions or alot of salt like up North are probably a pain to get off. My TA hardly saw any rain so it simply wiggled off the crank hub after removing the 3 bolts.Originally posted by stange567
Either way, good luck with your project.Comment
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just dont mess with the center bolt, I think I ruined the threads on mine . what should I do?93 t/a A4 3.23s
95 Formula A4 2.73s >>>>93 t/a 3.23 , !AIR, !cat, !A/C, hotchkis lowering springs, kyb adj shocks, DD
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97 3.8 v6 A4 camaro, hardtop
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