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Fred....Opti

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  • Fred....Opti

    I posted that I put in a new opti and the car would not Idle and sometimes not start. I'm at school for the week but my brother pulled it back out for me and said it was very hard to get it out. He said he got it back in then after a few attempts and it slid right in to where it'll bolt up. Should I be alright? This wouldn't have ruined my opti would have it?


    BTW I tore apart my old opti with 110k on it and the bearings still spun perfectly and there was no corrosion on the cap and rotor. It looked like new inside still.
    1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

  • #2
    Anybody with knowledge on this?
    1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

    Comment


    • #3
      here is a proceedure to troubleshoot the ignition system........

      Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
      check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
      Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
      spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
      indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
      If no spark exists, go to step 2.

      Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
      while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
      is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

      Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
      a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
      12v. If power go to b.
      b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
      primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
      very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
      c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
      terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
      not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

      Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
      key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
      side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
      If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
      module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
      circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
      scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
      cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
      4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
      connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
      battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
      of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
      If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
      the test light is on, go to step 5.

      Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
      frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
      connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
      you will use is located on the passenger side of the
      engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
      probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
      assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
      no flashes, replace the ignition module.

      If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
      start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
      faulty module or optispark.


      On a side note, have you checked the fuel pressure?

      Comment


      • #4
        I think he's asking if he might have damaged the Opti by forcing it into position - as evidenced by the difficulty in pulling it back off. I had suggested that the splined shaft wasn't indexed correctly, and perhaps was the cause of the rough running after the Opti replacement.

        As long as he got the splined shaft back together correctly indexed, its not likely you did any damage to the Opti. If there was any pressure on the shaft/input to the Opti, it might have pushed the rotor forward and damaged it, but for now just try and start it and see if it runs.

        There was another thread on this problem.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Injuneer
          I think he's asking if he might have damaged the Opti by forcing it into position - as evidenced by the difficulty in pulling it back off. I had suggested that the splined shaft wasn't indexed correctly, and perhaps was the cause of the rough running after the Opti replacement.

          As long as he got the splined shaft back together correctly indexed, its not likely you did any damage to the Opti. If there was any pressure on the shaft/input to the Opti, it might have pushed the rotor forward and damaged it, but for now just try and start it and see if it runs.

          There was another thread on this problem.
          I should have had a little more coffee in me before I posted. It's likely the pressure against the rotor killed it.

          Comment

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