??? engine ???

[DierDesire824]

im just wondering whats the biggest engine i could put in my 1997 z28 ci wize that is just a curious car noob question or how much would it cost to get my 350 bored to a 383 or would it be cheaper and better just to buy a 383

[TraceZ]

im just wondering whats the biggest engine i could put in my 1997 z28 ci wize that is just a curious car noob question or how much would it cost to get my 350 bored to a 383 or would it be cheaper and better just to buy a 383

A 383 is not a bored out 350. It is a stroked 350. That means you put a 400 crank in your 350 and get 383, basically. There is a little machining work to do on the block to make room for the larger crank throughs, but it's a pretty strait forward process to stroke the 350. If you look around online a bit you will see many places to buy stroker kits for the LT1.

Before stroking your motor you will want to do some other mods first.

1) catback 3" exhaust
2) headers
3) cold air induction with a high flow air filter

Think of your engine as a big air pump. The more air you can get in it and out of it the more power you will make.

[DeWynter]

A 383 is a 350 Overbored to 4.030 vs 4.000 and has a 400 crank or the newer drop in cranks with the 400 Stroke. It actually gives you 382.97 Cubic Inches

[DierDesire824]

i have a the borla catback exhaust ? so how much would headers and the cold air induction cost and how much does the stroking cost plus would it be more cost efficient / better for me in the long run to buy the new engine

[TraceZ]

i have a the borla catback exhaust ? so how much would headers and the cold air induction cost and how much does the stroking cost plus would it be more cost efficient / better for me in the long run to buy the new engine

You can get a used cold air kit on this forum for around $125.00.

Headers are your decison. There are many kinds, long tube and shorty. The shortys let you keep your catalytic converters which are required in many states. Whatever you get, get it ceramic coated for a nice long life.

Depending on how you use your car will determine if you rebuild your existing motor or buy a new one. If you can handle the car being out of service a couple months then rebuild the existing motor. As long as you are taking it all apart, you'll want to replace the cam and port the intake manifold and heads as well. There are many paople on this forum that will be able to fill in the details.

If you cannot be without the car for any long time period, you might want to buy a new motor outright and just install it over a weekend.

[DierDesire824]

yea by the time i get the money to do all this chances are i will have a junker around anyway so that it can sit after i do the rebuild and so forth


so so far i would want to get

Cold air kit
Stoker kit - cams pistons crankshaft oil pump lifter valve springs valves
fluiddamper
machine work
throttlebody
carb
headers

rear end gears

hmm whats that around 7000 8000

[fastTa]

It is generally considered incorrect to call a 3.75" stroke one-piece rear main seal LT1 crank a "400" crank. There are 4 common types of LT1 rebuilds. 355, 383, 396, and the 409. Some have pushed the LT1 block a little further but that has skating on thin ice.

The 355ci is obtained basically by a change in bore. 4.000" CNC'ed to 4.030".

The 383ci and up require a larger cylinder bore as well as a longer stroke.

383 = 4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke
396 = 4.030" bore x 3.875" stroke
409 = 4.030 bore x 4.000" stroke

Some have even done all bore 360ci LT1's (4.060" x 3.48") but they are rare and have limited application.

[DeWynter]

It is generally considered incorrect to call a 3.75" stroke one-piece rear main seal LT1 crank a "400" crank. There are 4 common types of LT1 rebuilds. 355, 383, 396, and the 409. Some have pushed the LT1 block a little further but that has skating on thin ice.

The 355ci is obtained basically by a change in bore. 4.000" CNC'ed to 4.030".

The 383ci and up require a larger cylinder bore as well as a longer stroke.

383 = 4.030" bore x 3.75" stroke
396 = 4.030" bore x 3.875" stroke
409 = 4.030 bore x 4.000" stroke

Some have even done all bore 360ci LT1's (4.060" x 3.48") but they are rare and have limited application.

Sorry about the 400 crank thing as I was half thinking of a gen 1 block (as mine is) and not the LT1 block, but either way a "traditional 383" is bored and stroked. It is the longer stroke that gives the great torque. But the draw back is the longer the stroke the more you limit your RPM range, unless you start to buy extremly strong crank rods and light pistons, it also increases RPM rampup times as it has to throw the pistons a longer distance which all has to do with rotatong mass etc. etc. etc. I could blab about this for hours but I think we all get the Idea.

[Injuneer]

Just to add a little confusion, GM Performance Parts sells the "ZZ383" crate engine, which is a 3.800" stroke, with a 4.000" bore (382.02 cu. inches). Of course that is built on a Gen 1 SBC, so its not likely you would use it in a 4th Gen.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/suggested_ad...asp?pid=156334

Cold air kit
Stoker kit - cams pistons crankshaft oil pump lifter valve springs valves
fluiddamper
machine work
throttlebody
carb
headers

rear end gears

hmm whats that around 7000 8000

Not quite that much money, but then the list is incomplete.

In addition to the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings), you also need a good set of ported heads. Without getting good heads and a cam (there is only one cam), you might just as well stick to a 355. This can run anywhere from less that $1,000 for porting your stock LT1 heads (no need to port the LT1 intake), to $3,000-3,500 for a good set of ported aftermarket or LT4 heads and matching intake.

Upgrade timing chain - LT4 Extreme Duty is one possibility, or use a Cloyes double roller and convert to an electric water pump.

Don't need a new oil pump. The stock pump - blueprinted, tacked pickup, "white" spring - has been demonstrated to support over 1,000HP in LT1 engines running 20# of boost. Same with the stock oil pan.

You could use the stock damper. You only need an "SFI-rated" damper (ATI or Fluidampr) if you need to meet NHRA tech. The choise between the ATI and the Fluidampr will pretty much split 50/50. I like the ATI.

Cam must be selected to match the heads, and will typically require a full valve train replacement, new lifters, hardened pushrods, guide plates, NSA roller rockers, springs, retainers, locks.

Also curious on why you would consider switching to a "carb"? The stock fuel injection if pretty decent, extremely flexible, and will produce a much more street friendly setup - the gas milage alone should be twice as good as a carb'd setup. Just upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and get a GOOD computer tune.

Allow additional $$$ for upgrade of the transmission. If you've got the M6, you will need a better clutch, with the A4 you will need to beef up the trans and go for a higher stall convertor.

"rear end gears" might not be enough. The stock 10-bolt rear axle assembly is not very strong - a few hard launches with a beefy 383 (or larger) with really sticky tires will destroy the rear - particularly with the M6. Budget $2,000-2,500 for a 12-bolt or 9-inch upgrade.

Allow at least $1,000 for suspension upgrades to put the power to the pavement.

Your overall estimate of $7,000-8,000 will cover a high quality engine. Allow an additional 50% for the drivetrain and suspension upgrades.