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MORE problems with T/A.......Need Help

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  • MORE problems with T/A.......Need Help

    Hey guys, I have yet encountered another problem with my 97 Trans Am. It has 105xxx on the clock, it has flowmaster cat back with removed cats and 02 sims, the LT4 knock Module, and Removed Mass Air Flow Screen. Yesterday I took off the old belt and tensioner replaced it and put on a new goodyear belt. Also cleaned out the Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor connection to see if that could fix the SES code for that. Now that all that is outta the way, after I did all of that my car now has a major problem. Just coincidental with everything I guess. The car is really cuttin out on acceleration. It also gets a really rough idle. The Oil pressure guage and Voltage guage flicker when it does this, seems like the air conditioner studders too, like all the power. Like when I hit the gass, the car doesn't want to go anywhere just starts cuttin out, also sounds like maybe a lil backfire in there. I'm thinking maybe an ignition problem or something. Hopefully nothing too serious. The car starts right up, but then i drive it for a minute or so and it starts acting up. I can't really even pass someone cause it feels like it wants to die. What do you guys think the problem could be. Before anyone asks if I put the belt on right, I'm pretty sure I did. haha.....and second of all, i know some of you hate the idea of takin the screen outta the MAF sensor but I know this couldn't cause this big of problem. The car goes into the shop monday. Also my EGR code is on the computer is settin of the SES light too, but some think it's lack of cats, but I dunno. I'm sure theyll check the computer and go straight to whats settin off the SES light. Then if that doesnt work, they'll check fuel pressure. I just had a new pump installed 10xxx ago, and haven't ran it out of gas. Who knows. Well any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks
    Jason

  • #2
    Does it still have the stock plugs and wires? Mine was at that exact mileage when it started do the same thing. The factory plug gap had widened to the point that the ignition just couldn't do it's job.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Joe 1320
      Does it still have the stock plugs and wires? Mine was at that exact mileage when it started do the same thing. The factory plug gap had widened to the point that the ignition just couldn't do it's job.
      kaching!

      The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

      2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

      Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
      Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
      sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Joe 1320
        Does it still have the stock plugs and wires? Mine was at that exact mileage when it started do the same thing. The factory plug gap had widened to the point that the ignition just couldn't do it's job.
        Nope, plugs and wires were changed prettineer 15xxx ago i think around newayz. Any other suggestions?

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        • #5
          Oh yeah, opti was changed a year ago along with a rebuild of the motor.

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          • #6
            I'm going to suggest either a factory manual or a Haynes (available at autozone). There are diagnostic charts that will walk you through troubleshooting various systems. Until then, all we can do is guess.

            It still could be plugs/wires, opti, coil, driver module. Could also be fouled injectors, bad fuel filter, stuck EGR, bad PCM and so on and so on. Just because parts were replaced, doesn't mean they are still good. Park the car in a dark area and while the engine is running, open the hood. If you see any blue glow around any of the plug wires, they are breaking down and need to be replaced. Check for arcing around the coil as well. I've also seen optis fail in 15K miles too. I would suggest getting a few basic items....a noid light and a digital volt meter. These are essential for tracing electrical circuits.

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