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  • Need your help, Pleeeeeeeaaseee!

    Hi Gang!

    I need your help! I need to know what is the best scanning software that will allow me to view the misfire monitor to determine where a small misfire is comming from. My car spits and sputs a little at idle and shakes a little. It does this til it reaches 1800 rpms. New Opti, Spark Plugs and Wires, New Map Sensor and gasket, Intake oil leak fixed, New Fuel Pump, new intake air charge sensor, new water pump. Took throttle body off and cleaned it. New Hypertech 160degree thermostat.

    I need software for OBDII and OBDI because I have both PCM's I use.

    I am also needing a Fuel injector cleaning kit to disable the fuel pump and run car on fuel injector cleaner. I saw something made by 3M that let your car run off a can of cleaner that looked like a spray can. What would you all suggest I buy! I absolutely hate taking my car to a dealer for anything! They screw up more than they fix. I usually end up getting in a argument or getting mad every time.

    Thanks Guys! Lee Stroud!
    Lee Stroud in West Virginia

  • #2
    Datamaster is the best for scanning LT1's. It has a very high logging resolution. Up to 10 scans per second, They even have a trial software that lets you do like 20-30 scans before you must purchase the authorization key.

    http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DM_Software.htm

    You will also need the ALDL interface cable:

    http://www.ttspowersystems.com/adapt_cable.htm
    http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DM_pricing.htm

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    • #3
      Originally posted by LeeS97Z28

      I am also needing a Fuel injector cleaning kit to disable the fuel pump and run car on fuel injector cleaner. I saw something made by 3M that let your car run off a can of cleaner that looked like a spray can. What would you all suggest I buy! I absolutely hate taking my car to a dealer for anything! They screw up more than they fix. I usually end up getting in a argument or getting mad every time.

      Thanks Guys! Lee Stroud!
      Napa carries the fuel injection cleaning kit.

      Comment


      • #4
        The only misfire info gathered by the computer is with OBDII. OBDI does not do that.
        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Guys!
          What are the chances of the fuel injectors being dirty or not opening correctly causing this.?

          This is about the only thing I have not checked yet!
          Car has got 83k miles on it.

          I unhooked both the Mass Airflow sensor and both O2 sensors and car still had that same spit and spudder!

          So wouldn't this lead more to fuel injectors and the fact that it is hard to start after it has sat two hours or so?

          Thanks Lee!
          Lee Stroud in West Virginia

          Comment


          • #6
            AutoTap for OBD-II, "enhanced parameters" version will allow you to see misfire count by individual cylinder. OBD-I does not have misfire detection capability, as Rob mentioned. For OBD-I you would have to put it on an ignition scope.

            Have you scanned the car for trouble codes? Have you checked for leaking EGR valve? That can cause the rough idle.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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            • #7
              This may sound like a dumb question, but when was the last time you changed the plugs and wires. ? Have you also checked for any vacuum leaks? Like Fred mentioned, let us know what codes you are getting with the OBDII. Did this problem gradually get worse or did it start all of the sudden?

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              • #8
                When I first bought the car, It had this same problem. I could see the N0#6 spark plug wire arching on the exhaust manifold. It was also hard to start if you let it set for a few hours. So I ordered new AC Delco plugs and wires from Jason Cromer. I had my local GM dealer install the plugs and wires for me since I work 2 jobs its hard to get the time to do it myself.
                I paid 374.00 in labor alone.

                I bought a new EGR Valve, Map sensor, IAT sensor, and I cleaned the throttle body by taking it off and using a tooth brush. I put all new gaskets in the throttle body. I also did the throttle body by-pass and installed a Hypertech 160 degree thermostat.

                I also cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor. The waterpump has been replaced and the Opti Spark distributor. I almost forgot new fuel pump. The dealer did this for me.

                I put a brand new AC Delco Ignition Control Module and new Accel coil on.

                If you unplug the Mass Airflow sensor and O2 sensors car will still do the same thing!

                All this has been done within the last 15k miles.

                There isn't too much left but injectors, engine coolant temp. sensor, and O2 sensors.

                I borrowed the scan tool from work (Autozone). No codes in computer.

                Do you guys think it is injectors doing this because it is hard to start after sitting a while?

                It doesn't use any oil and has a Vacuum reading of 20Hg

                Thanks Lee!
                Lee Stroud in West Virginia

                Comment


                • #9
                  Have you checked the fuel pressure at engine shutoff, and checked how long it takes for the fuel pressure to bleed down? Leaking injectors would explain a hard start. If pressure bleeds down quickly, that would indicate leaking injectors, faulty fuel pressure regulator or faulty check valve in the fuel pump (new fuel pump would rule that out). The injectors can be visually checked for drips by pulling the rails and pressureizing the fuel system.

                  When you have the "hard start" condition, can you correct it (or minimize it somewhat) by putting the throttle on the floor, and putting the PCM into "clear flood" mode?

                  The dealer should be able to access the cylinder misfire count with his Tech 2 scanner. Has he done that?
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The mechanic that was working on my car told me he seen a lot of cars like mine do the same thing and really there wasn't any use to do anything. This pretty much told me he didn't care or he didn't want to work any further on my car. Thats when I got boiling mad!

                    I had a 1995 formula and it didn't spit and sputter. Also it took right off when you hit the key. It only took 1 turn by the starter and it roared to life.

                    You know I even slipped this mechanic a $100.00 on the side that the dealership knew nothing about to try and get him to do the best job possible!

                    I'm going to buy the software needed to view the misfire monitor and codes and try and do the work myself. I have come to the understanding that if you don't do it yourself it wont be done right.

                    I'll check the fuel pressure and pull the fuel rail and let you guys know what I find.

                    Thanks guys for you help!
                    Lee Stroud in West Virginia

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by LeeS97Z28
                      I had a 1995 formula and it didn't spit and sputter. Also it took right off when you hit the key. It only took 1 turn by the starter and it roared to life.
                      The way it should be.

                      Originally posted by LeeS97Z28
                      I have come to the understanding that if you don't do it yourself it wont be done right.
                      Yep. The sad truth. If I tell the dealer that I have a 95 Trans-Am, he asks me what engine is in there. They are about 50% on getting me the right parts and there is about a 50% difference in parts cost depending on where you go, and its all about twice what Dal or Jason charge. Dealer is LAST RESORT for anything.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by LeeS97Z28
                        . I have come to the understanding that if you don't do it yourself it wont be done right.
                        I'll second that. Sad, but true.

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